The jalapeño pepper is a chili-type cultivar of the capsicum annuum species, which includes sweet bell, habanero, and cayenne peppers, among others.
On the Scoville scale, jalapeños are rated at 4,000. While many people believe the Jalapeño to be a “hot” pepper, its heat is really on the lesser side of the spectrum when compared to other, more potent peppers. Jalapeño peppers are often plucked when still green. The fruits will mature to red, orange, or yellow if left on the plant.
In this article, I’ll explain how Jalapeño peppers grow and how they are different from other pepper varieties.
Germination
Seed germination is the first step of the pepper plant’s life cycle. Jalapeño pepper plants, like other pepper cultivars, should be started indoors six to eight weeks before your area’s last frost date. Growing jalapeños from seed require a temperature range of 80 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. You may use a seedling heat mat to provide this heated atmosphere.
Jalapeño pepper seed germination is sluggish. The seeds might take two to three weeks to grow.
Sprouting
After 1 to 2 weeks, the seeds will develop little white sprouts. The sprouts will show that the seeds were planted correctly and at the correct temperature.
First true leaves
The first leaves will emerge from the seeds 4 to 5 weeks after sowing. These help assess the growth progress of the seedling.
Third true leaves
The plant will grow a second set of leaves, known as the third true leaves. This means the plant is ready to be transplanted. Before taking the plant outdoors, slowly move it to a window to harden it up.
Vegetation Growth
Plants must manufacture their own sustenance to complete the flowering stage of development. This process is called photosynthesis. The photosynthetic process begins as soon as the leaves sprout.
You may relocate your jalapeño plants outdoors when they have hardened off and there is no danger of frost anymore. Ideally, the temperature will remain above 55 degrees Fahrenheit.
The plant above ground will grow quicker and faster as the root system of the jalapeño increases. Watering, fertilizing (if the soil does not contain fertilizer), and transplanting are all required at this time of fast development.
For good leaf growth, young jalapeño plants need a lot of nitrogen as they mature. A shortage of nitrogen may result in slowed growth or fading leaves that finally fall off.
This stage of the jalapeño plant is critical for producing robust crops. It needs enough light and nutrients to develop as effectively as possible.
Flowering
The flower is the plant’s sexually reproductive organ. To attract pollinators, flower petals are often large, highly colored, and intensely perfumed.
After 2 to 4 weeks of being outside, jalapeño plants should begin to blossom. The plant will produce white or yellow flowers throughout the summer months if exposed to direct sunshine following the growth period. These flowers will develop on the tops of the branches.
Once your jalapeño plants start flowering, they don’t need nearly as much nitrogen anymore. This is the time to switch to a more phosphorus-rich fertilizer combination.
Pollination
Pollination is required for the pepper plant’s life cycle to continue.
Jalapeños self pollinate, which means they do not rely on other plants (or flowers) to complete the pollination process. Some of the flowers will pollinate when pollen drops directly from the anthers to the stigma. While other flowers will rely on wind and insects to complete the pollination process.
Fruiting
Jalapeño plant flowers, as you may know, transform into peppers. If a flower is fertilized successfully, it will shed its petals and begin to create fruit and seeds.
Ripening
Jalapeño peppers turn from bright green to dark green. As the fruits mature, they will turn to other colors, like red or yellow. They’ll be spicier after they’re fully grown, so avoid the temptation to pluck them before they’re ready. The pepper’s skin, on the other hand, may become leathery with time.
Peppers should never be pulled from the plant. Cut peppers using a sharp knife or pruning shears, leaving a short stem connected to the pepper.
