Shasta daisies take up a quiet place in my thoughts. As we roasted hotdogs on bonfires and hunted for fireflies at night, I recall the glow of white flower petals reflecting the moonlight in my parents’ garden.
Daisies as a group are favorites in the garden. The Shasta variety is no exception, and not just because of its large blooms and stunning appearance. This enduring is strong, simple to develop, and extremely flexible.
A vertical close-up of the Shasta daisy, Leucanthemum x superbum, which grows in the garden. Green and white printed text can be found at the top and bottom of the frame.
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They are a favorite for cottage gardens and perennial borders and can be grown in USDA Hardiness Zones 4 to 9. They bloom in the middle of the summer.
Are you prepared to plant Shasta daisies in your garden? I’ll talk about the following:
What You’ll Realize
Development and History
Engendering
Instructions to Develop
Developing Tips
Pruning and Upkeep
Cultivars to Choose
Overseeing Irritations and Illness
Best Purposes
Fast Reference Developing Aide
Development and History
Shasta daisy is an individual from the Asteraceae or aster family, a gathering noted for its starburst-molded blossoms.
The Shasta daisy is native to the United States, whereas other members of the Leucanthemum genus are native to Asia and Europe.
A vertical close-up of a Leucanthemum x superbum flower that is growing in the garden, shown in light sunlight against a background with soft focus.
Shasta daisies are the result of a quadruple hybrid crossing and were grown in Northern California near Mount Shasta, which is covered in snow.
Beginning in 1884, horticulturist Luther Burbank crossed the parents Nipponanthemum nipponicum (Japanese field daisy), L. vulgare (oxeye daisy), L. maximum (English field daisy), and L. lacustre (Portuguese field daisy).
The Shasta daisy finally made its way to home gardeners in 1901, looking like a lovely sunny side up egg.
The flowers are much larger than those of the oxeye daisy, despite their similar appearance.
Spread
Shasta daisies are not difficult to spread from seed and by division. Keep in mind that because they are a hybrid, seeds taken from previous plants might not mature in the same way as the parent.
From Seeds Start seeds indoors in individual pots or trays eight to ten weeks before the typical date of the last frost in your area.
The seeds need light to sprout and ought to be tenderly squeezed into a damp soilless medium yet not covered. If the seeds are kept in a bright spot at 70°F, they will germinate within 14 to 21 days.
Maintain the seedlings in a sunny location after germination by providing consistent moisture. You can harden off and transplant the plants into the garden as outlined below when they have two sets of true leaves and there is no longer any risk of frost.
Alternately, you can sow the seeds outdoors in containers or directly into the ground in May or between the middle of August and the beginning of September. Plant three or four seeds in groups 12 to 24 inches apart.
Thin the seedlings after they germination to keep only the strongest and healthiest plants.
Some cultivars will flower the same year they are sown, while others will flower the following year.
By Division Dividing your plant is an essential step in preserving its vitality. If you already have some Shasta daisies in your garden or if a friend or neighbor has some to share, this is an easy way to propagate more of them.
In the early spring or late summer, divide existing plants every two to three years. Using a spade or shovel, carefully remove the plant from the ground, digging at least six inches from the crown and 12 inches deep.
Divide the roots in half or thirds using a clean knife or pruning shears after shaking the soil off the roots. Every division ought to have a couple of stems and a lot of sound looking roots joined.
Replant in the following manner.
Planting: If you bought potted plants from a nursery or grew your own indoor seedlings, plant them in the spring or early fall. Make sure that the soil you are planting in is well-drained and moist.
When fully grown, plants can spread 18 inches, so space them at least that far apart.
Make a hole twice as deep and wide as the container. Check to see if the top of the root ball will be at soil level when planted by working two to four inches of compost into the bottom of the hole.
Embed the root ball, fill in the holes with soil, and firm with your hands.
After planting, give it plenty of water and mulch it to keep weeds at bay.
Shasta daisies are hardy perennials that can be grown in zones 4 to 9, and they are easy to grow. They blossom in the late spring, from July to September, and are low support.
A horizontal close-up of Leucanthemum x superbum flowers growing in the garden in the early summer.
For masses of dazzlingly white flowers with sunny centers, plant in full sun. In hot climates, partial shade is acceptable.
They favor well depleting, reasonably prolific soil, with a dry to medium dampness level.
They can flourish in a wide range of soils, including sand, chalk, clay, and loam. A pH of 5.5-6.2 is great, yet these blossoms will endure an unbiased pH too.
A horizontal close-up of three garden-grown Leucanthemum x superbum flowers on a softly focused background.
Once established, Shasta daisies are drought-tolerant, but they should be watered in the summer if there has been less than one inch of rainfall per week. Not certain the amount you’re getting? Consider a rain gauge.
Apply a layer of fertilizer in the spring to keep richness up for ideal development.
Shasta daisies don’t need to be fertilized other than when they are planted and once a year in the spring. This is because too much nitrogen fertilizer will make the plants produce more foliage than flowers.
Tips for Growing Plant in Full Sun
Make sure the soil drains well.
At the time of planting and every spring thereafter, amend with compost.
Maintenance and Pruning: If you want to encourage season-long blooms, remove spent flower heads.
A horizontal close-up of the white flowers of the garden plant Leucanthemum x superbum ‘Becky.’
Shasta daisies produce flowers both laterally and at the terminal end of the stem. Make your cut just above the junction with the lateral flower when the terminal flower is spent.
Divide the plant as described above when you notice diminished vigor, smaller or fewer flowers, or the center of the clump begins to die.
Take a look at our troubleshooting guide if your plants do not produce flowers.
After the main killing ice, prune the whole plant to one to two crawls over the dirt level.
Cultivars to Consider When you think of a Shasta daisy, you probably picture pure white and sunshine yellow flowers that stand out against green stems and foliage.
However, while the majority of cultivars adhere to the standard, there are also a few exceptions. Some of my top recommendations are as follows:
Banana Cream is a cultivar that stands in contrast to the white Shasta daisy grain. Its lemon-to-pale yellow petals surround the traditional yellow center.
A nearby square picture of Leucanthemum x superbum ‘Banana Cream’ filling in the nursery.
‘Banana Cream’ has four-inch-wide blooms that last more than two weeks in a vase and grow 15 to 18 inches tall.
Nature Hills Nursery sells plants in #1 containers.
Becky “Becky,” one of the larger cultivars, produces flowers with a diameter of three to four inches on three- to four-foot stems. The blooms last a long time and are wonderful as cut flowers.
A square close-up image of the garden’s Leucanthemum x superbum ‘Becky,’ with the background gradually coming into soft focus.
‘Becky’
This assortment was named Lasting Plant of the Year in 2003 by the Enduring Plant Affiliation.
You can find this cultivar accessible at Nature Slopes Nursery in #1 compartments.
Crazy Daisy is in every family. Fittingly named, this frilly, fluffy, eye-getting cultivar grows 23 to 27 inches tall. Twisted white rays surround a yellow center in fully double blooms.
A square image of the flowers of Leucanthemum x superbum, also known as “Crazy Daisy.”
Burpee has plants called “Crazy Daisy.”
Snow Lady is a cultivar that is a dwarf version of “Becky.” It only grows to 12 inches tall, making it an excellent filler for containers.
A square close-up image of the flowers Leucanthemum x superbum ‘Snow Lady’ on a background with a soft focus.
The white blooms of “Snow Lady” are numerous and range in width from two to three inches.
At Nature Hills Nursery, you can find “Snow Lady” in the #1 containers that are available.
Managing Pests and Diseases Although Shasta daisies are sturdy plants that typically require little care, the following insects and diseases can occasionally cause problems.
Insects Despite the fact that they may be able to entice some lovely visitors to the garden, such as butterflies, some of the insects that may visit are less welcome.
Aphids One of these unwanted pests is the squishy, small plant-sucking aphid. They leave sticky residues on the upper leaf surfaces that have the potential to grow an unsightly black mold and result in twisted leaves as well as decreased vigor.
A nearby upward picture of a plastic shower jug of Monterey Green Oil separated on a white foundation.
Monterey Horticultural Oil: If you’re having trouble with aphids, Arbico Organics carries Monterey Horticultural Oil, which can be used as an insecticide.
The larvae of small flies are called leaf miners. Leaf miners inflict disfiguring damage to the plant’s leaves by chewing through tunnels that turn and twist inside the leaves. On the off chance that there are a ton of them, this can prompt defoliation.
Your plant can tolerate some minor leaf miner action if it is healthy. To help control small populations, either remove leaves that show signs of infestation with the tunneling larvae or crush the larvae at the ends of their tunnels.
Many pesticides that are said to be safe to use in home gardens won’t work because the larvae are hidden in the leaves. All things being equal, why not attempt an organic control?
When used correctly, the beneficial nematode Steinernema feltiae can be a very effective control.
On a white background, a square close-up image of the packaging for NemAttack Steinernema feltiae Beneficial Nematodes.
NemAttack Ace Sf
It is accessible at Arbico Organics.
For the best results, carefully read the storage and application instructions because these are living things.
Learn more about controlling leaf miners and beneficial nematodes here.
Two-Spotted Spider Mites When it’s hot and humid outside, these tiny mites (Tetranychus urticae) can sneak up on you and have your plant webbed up before you even know they’re there.
They prefer to remain concealed beneath leaves, making them even more difficult to spot.
The first step in preventing spider mite infestation is to keep plants healthy. However, if an infestation does occur, try spraying the leaves with hard jets of water from the hose to remove the mites and their eggs.
You can apply horticultural oil, such as the one mentioned earlier, if this does not work.
Your stunning Shasta daisy can become an eyesore as a result of disease spots and wilts. Pay attention to the following:
Alternaria genus and Septoria leucanthemi species, two different kinds of fungi, can cause leaf spots on your plants.
Leaf spots are dull earthy colored round or semi-roundabout sores with a white spot in the center. You can anticipate the spots to appear first on the lower leaves. Although infected leaves may shrivel, they typically remain attached to the stem.
S. leucanthemi overwinters on plant material and is spread by sprinkling water. To prevent disease from spreading when it rains or you water, remove diseased leaves as soon as you notice them.
When you do water, make an effort to water the plant’s base rather than its flowers and leaves. Get rid of any diseased plant material at the end of the season.
A square close-up image of a ZeroTol HC bottle made of plastic isolated against a white background.
ZeroTol HC A product like ZeroTol HC, which is available at Arbico Organics, can be applied to treat and prevent leaf spot.
Verticillium Wilt The soil-borne fungi Verticillium dahliae and V. albo-atrum infect the plant’s roots and can slowly spread to other parts of the plant to cause verticillium wilt.
Sudden wilting, yellow leaves, slowed growth, and leaf loss are all signs of an infection.
The disease’s severity and spread can be reduced by the summer heat.
Because these pathogens can affect over 300 other varieties of host plants, many of which are common ornamentals for gardens, you might decide to try to save your other plants by removing one affected plant.
Make sure your tools are clean before dividing or pruning plants.
The best plants to survive this disease are those that are vigorous and healthy. Fungicides, regrettably, have no effect.
Best Uses Moonlight-reflecting, sun-catching Shasta daisies quickly became a popular garden plant, and it’s not hard to see why.
You can be creative with this perennial because it is one of the most adaptable plants you can grow.
A vertical close-up of the garden’s “Freak” Leucanthemum x superbum flowers on a softly focused background.
The durable, solid sprouts are works of art in house gardens and rock nurseries, and you can establish them in lines, boundaries, and edges.
The white blossom-topped clump-forming plants look great in mass plantings or as a single specimen.
Plant it in a cut flower garden and snip the stems for over a week of beauty in a vase, or combine it with other colorful perennials for a stunning contrast.
