The jalapeño pepper is a chili-type cultivar of the capsicum annuum species, which includes sweet bell, habanero, and cayenne peppers, among others.
On the Scoville scale, jalapeños are rated at 4,000. While many people believe the Jalapeño to be a “hot” pepper, its heat is really on the lesser side of the spectrum when compared to other, more potent peppers. Jalapeño peppers are often plucked when still green. The fruits will mature to red, orange, or yellow if left on the plant.
In this article, I’ll explain how Jalapeño peppers grow and how they are different from other pepper varieties.
Germination
Seed germination is the first step of the pepper plant’s life cycle. Jalapeño pepper plants, like other pepper cultivars, should be started indoors six to eight weeks before your area’s last frost date. Growing jalapeños from seed require a temperature range of 80 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit. You may use a seedling heat mat to provide this heated atmosphere.
Jalapeño pepper seed germination is sluggish. The seeds might take two to three weeks to grow.
Sprouting
After 1 to 2 weeks, the seeds will develop little white sprouts. The sprouts will show that the seeds were planted correctly and at the correct temperature.
First true leaves
The first leaves will emerge from the seeds 4 to 5 weeks after sowing. These help assess the growth progress of the seedling.
Third true leaves
The plant will grow a second set of leaves, known as the third true leaves. This means the plant is ready to be transplanted. Before taking the plant outdoors, slowly move it to a window to harden it up.
Vegetation Growth
Plants must manufacture their own sustenance to complete the flowering stage of development. This process is called photosynthesis. The photosynthetic process begins as soon as the leaves sprout.
You may relocate your jalapeño plants outdoors when they have hardened off and there is no danger of frost anymore. Ideally, the temperature will remain above 55 degrees Fahrenheit.
The plant above ground will grow quicker and faster as the root system of the jalapeño increases. Watering, fertilizing (if the soil does not contain fertilizer), and transplanting are all required at this time of fast development.
For good leaf growth, young jalapeño plants need a lot of nitrogen as they mature. A shortage of nitrogen may result in slowed growth or fading leaves that finally fall off.
This stage of the jalapeño plant is critical for producing robust crops. It needs enough light and nutrients to develop as effectively as possible.
Flowering
The flower is the plant’s sexually reproductive organ. To attract pollinators, flower petals are often large, highly colored, and intensely perfumed.
After 2 to 4 weeks of being outside, jalapeño plants should begin to blossom. The plant will produce white or yellow flowers throughout the summer months if exposed to direct sunshine following the growth period. These flowers will develop on the tops of the branches.
Once your jalapeño plants start flowering, they don’t need nearly as much nitrogen anymore. This is the time to switch to a more phosphorus-rich fertilizer combination.
Pollination
Pollination is required for the pepper plant’s life cycle to continue.
Jalapeños self pollinate, which means they do not rely on other plants (or flowers) to complete the pollination process. Some of the flowers will pollinate when pollen drops directly from the anthers to the stigma. While other flowers will rely on wind and insects to complete the pollination process.
Fruiting
Jalapeño plant flowers, as you may know, transform into peppers. If a flower is fertilized successfully, it will shed its petals and begin to create fruit and seeds.
Ripening
Jalapeño peppers turn from bright green to dark green. As the fruits mature, they will turn to other colors, like red or yellow. They’ll be spicier after they’re fully grown, so avoid the temptation to pluck them before they’re ready. The pepper’s skin, on the other hand, may become leathery with time.
Peppers should never be pulled from the plant. Cut peppers using a sharp knife or pruning shears, leaving a short stem connected to the pepper.
They may not be as popular as tomatoes or peppers, but carrots (Daucus carota) are a staple in many gardens as they are easy to grow. They are known and loved for their sweet flavor and the crunch that make them so satisfying to bite into. Although they are typically known as the orange root vegetable the Bug’s Bunny eats, they come in all sorts of colors.
Compared to other vegetables, they require little attention and need little space in the vegetable garden because of their small footprint.
Overall, they are relatively straightforward to raise. Carrots are content as long as they receive full sun, are planted in loose, well-draining soil, and aren’t overfertilized.
If you are interested in planting them, but you are unsure where to start, you’re in the right place. The following gardening tips will help you produce a plentiful harvest in no time!
Soil Prep
Like other root crops, prepping the garden soil before planting carrots is one of the most critical steps in the whole season. The ground needs to be free of rocks and other large debris and well-tilled to ensure they can easily grow down through the soil.
Well-drained sandy or loamy soil is ideal. Heavy soils will slow their maturation or cause fully-grown carrots to be short and stubby instead of longer and thinner. Heavy soils also increase the chance of physical deformities that occur during the growing season.
To loosen the soil adequately before planting, dig down to at least 12 inches deep, working it well by hand or with a tiller to break up any clods or hardpans. After you have worked it well once, you should go over it again a second time.
If your soils aren’t conducive to growing (heavy clay or rocky), build a raised garden and fill it with a well-draining potting mix. They grow well in raised gardens because of the loose soil.
Regardless of where you plant them, do not amend the soil with anything high in nitrogen, such as manure or nitrogen-heavy fertilizers. High nitrogen causes the carrots to fork when growing and develop an overabundance of little side hairs.
Planting the Seeds
Since the edible portion of carrots is the roots themselves, we do not recommend that you start the seeds inside. Instead, sow directly into the soil once conditions are suitable outside. Trying to transplant seedlings from containers into the ground results in damage.
As cool-season vegetables, they need cooler temperatures to germinate and grow and often mature before the heat of the summer. Hot summer days can make the carrots tough or fibrous.
Timing
Seeds can be planted in early spring for a summer harvest or planted later in the growing season for a fall harvest.
If you’d like a continuous crop, sow new seeds every two weeks through late spring or early summer in hot climates or the end of summer in temperature regions.
Spring: Plan to sow your seeds in the early spring, ahead of other warm-season vegetables. Seeds can be sown after the threat of frost has passed or 2-3 weeks before the last frost if using row covers. The minimum soil temperature should be 50℉, but seeds germinate best at soil temperatures above 70℉.
Fall: Wait until mid to late summer, so the carrot plants germinate and are actively growing as the summer temperatures are falling. Aim to plant seeds approximately ten weeks before the first typical frost fall in your area.
Spacing
Plant seeds in rows spaced one to two feet apart, with about 1 inch of distance between the seeds within the row. Sow seeds in troughs approximately one-half inch deep and cover lightly with soil.
Sowing
Sow seeds by hand, or use a seed sower or seed tape to help space them out evenly. The seeds are small and tricky to work with; if need be, you can plant them closer together than the recommended spacing distance and then thin the plants after germination.
After sowing the seeds, germination may take two to three weeks. This is slightly longer than many other garden vegetables that sprout within ten to fourteen days and will be slower in colder soil temperatures.
Carrots have a hard seed coat, making it essential to water the soil often, keeping the soil moist to soften the seed coat and encourage germination.
Regular watering also prevents a crust from forming on the surface, impeding the seedlings from breaking through the soil. Some gardeners cover the soil with a thin layer of vermiculite to help prevent crusting.
Thinning
When the carrot tops have 3 to 4 true leaves (typically when they reach 2 inches high) gently thin the seedlings to 2 inches apart. Instead of pulling them out and potentially damaging nearby carrots, you can use clean, sterilized scissors or gardening shears to cut off the tops.
After thinning to the recommended spacing, go ahead and eat the thinned baby carrots if they are big enough!
Care Tips
The following care tips are essential to creating a plentiful harvest.
Sunlight: Carrots grow best in full-sun locations in the garden, where they receive a minimum of six hours of sunlight daily. They will tolerate partial shade (especially when daytime temperatures are at the hottest), but you may see a reduction in growth and yield.
Watering: Keep the soil moist, especially when the temperature rises, without waterlogging the roots. Consistent moisture helps produce the best flavor. Water at least one inch (about ½ gallon per square foot) per week when they are young, then two inches as the roots grow and mature.
Fertilizing: Carrots are light feeders, needing only a single dose of high phosphorus and high potassium fertilizer (such as 0-10-10 or 5-15-15) about a month after germination. Apply at about half the recommended rate on the label, watering the fertilizer into the soil well. Avoid overfertilizing as it causes them to split, and do not use high nitrogen fertilizer since nitrogen promotes foliage growth. Root vegetable plants need more potassium and phosphorus compared to nitrogen.
Weeding: Constantly remove weeds when they pop up near your carrots, especially when they are young and establishing. Weeds compete with neighboring plants for water, sunlight, and soil nutrients. Their roots can also damage developing carrots, depending on the type of weed and their root system.
Pest and Disease Management: Most varieties have little pest or disease problems but periodically scout for pests such as rust flies, flea beetles, and wireworms and diseases such as leaf blight and black root rot. If discovered, treat quickly to prevent significant damage to any plant that is affected.
Harvesting
Carrots mature relatively quickly, taking about 2 to 4 months, depending upon the variety grown and local growing conditions.
When Should They be Harvested?
The guidelines for when to harvest are pretty loose. Once they reach the size of your little finger, you can harvest them. Or you can allow them to stay in the ground and grow to a larger, mature size.
How Do You Harvest?
There are two different ways to harvest:
Using your hand, grab at the base of the carrot top, just above the flesh. Gently pull them straight up out of the ground. You may need to wiggle them back and forth slightly as you pull.
Instead of pulling plants by hand, you can also use a garden fork to dig around the taproots to remove them from the ground.
After harvesting, brush off as much loose dirt as possible to keep the soil outside instead of bringing it into your house.
FAQ
Q. How do you store freshly harvested carrots?
Immediately after harvesting them, cut the tops down to about one-half inch and under running water scrub off any remaining dirt. Allow them to air-dry. Then, seal them in zip-top plastic bags and store them in the vegetable crisper drawer of your refrigerator. For long-term storage, place them in tubs of moist sand or dry sawdust and keep them in a cool, dry area.
Q. Can you leave them in the ground over winter?
Yes, you can leave mature carrots in the soil for temporary storage if pests aren’t a concern and the ground will not freeze. You can also cover the garden bed with straw or leaves for insulation.
Q. Can you grow them in containers?
Yes, you can, but they need a little more attention and care than when grown in the ground. Make sure containers are deep enough to accommodate the variety chosen and have drainage holes in the bottom. During the hot summer months, keep the potting soil evenly moist without overwatering, which causes the carrots to rot.
Q. How do you make seed tapes for planting?
Making your seed tape is an inexpensive, effective way to properly space seeds when sowing them into the ground soil and allows you to customize the varieties based on your preference.
Mix a paste of flour and water until it is the consistency of syrup. Take a length of toilet paper or white streamer and place dots of the paste every inch from end to end slightly off-center. Then stick one or two seeds to each dot and fold the paper over cover the seeds.
Finding full sun plants for hanging baskets is easy. A quick stroll through your favorite nursery or garden center provides plenty of options for the brightly lit spots in your yard. Finding shade-loving plants for baskets seems much more challenging. DDon’tworry, though. There are plenty of beautiful plants that love shady spots in your yard or corners of your covered porch.
The following plants are just a sampling of ones that love the shade. The list includes flowering ornamentals, woodland plants like ferns and hostas with a mix of perennial and annual species.
Understanding What Full Shade Means
All plants need sunshine for growth, including those classified as full-shade. The classifications—full sun, partial sun, partial shade, or full shade—are based on how much sunlight a plant needs through the day. Full shade plants thrive with filtered sunlight or less than four hours of direct sun every day, preferably early morning.
Benefits Of Full Shade Plants
Shade plants have lower moisture requirements because less water is lost from bright sunlight on the foliage.
Shaded spots retain soil moisture better.
Most shade-loving plants are low maintenance.
Plants add color to areas usually shadowed and darker.
12 Plants For Shaded Hanging Baskets
1. Rex Begonias (Begonia rex)
Rex begonias are a low-light show stopper! They are one of the most eye-catching, dramatic begonia varieties with their exotic-looking foliage. Large waxy leaves display greens, reds, and silver shades and may even have slight purple hues. One benefit of these plants is they easily transition to houseplants in the fall, where they safely overwinter until spring.
2. Coleus (Coleus spp.)
A favorite for baskets, potted containers, and landscape plantings, coleus plants come in a boundless array of varieties. The stunning foliage is available in shades of maroon, red, orange, brown, yellow, cream, and green. Contrasting or complementary leaf edges are often ruffled or scalloped to create a show-stopping plant. Coleus plants are one of the easiest bedding plants to grow.
3. Impatiens (Impatiens walleriana)
Classified as a tender perennial, impatiens are small, compact plants with glossy green foliage and an abundance of brightly-colored flowers. They are a staple bedding plant in many gardeners but typically grown as annuals. They bloom all season continuously until the first frost in a range of colors, including white, pink, lilac, purple, red, orange, and bicolor blends.
4. Hostas (Hosta spp.)
Hostas are revered in the gardening community for shady spots in the landscape. These beauties thrive in the shadows of your house or under your favorite shade tree in the yard. Stunning foliage comes in green, yellow, blue, and cream hues, and the plants are incredibly easy to care for, making them great for inexperienced gardeners.
5. Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia)
Also known as moneywort, creeping Jenny is known as a ground cover plant because of its low stature and spreading nature. But the long, trailing stems add interest to baskets when allowed to drape over the side. Plants bloom from late spring to summer with yellow flowers. Its rounded leaves look like coins.
6. Coral Bells (Heuchera spp.)
Coral Bells are known for their unique leaves in shades of green and red. They have a wavy leaf margin and distinct vein patterns. These herbaceous shade perennials send up long flower stalks that give way to bell-shaped clusters of red, pink, or white flower clusters in late spring and summer. Butterflies and other pollinators also love these plants.
7. Fuschia (Fuchsia spp.)
Fuschia plants thrive in lower temperatures and shaded locations. Plants bloom throughout the summer, showcasing bright pendulous flowers of white, pink, or purple against contrasting dark green foliage. The delicate-looking plant is quite hardy and low-maintenance, needing little care. Unlike many flowering ornamentals, fuschia plants have the fullest blooms when kept from the direct sun.
8. Ferns (Tracheophyta spp.)
Most people think of ferns for planting under trees and close to foundations, but they also do well in baskets hung in full or dappled shade. These plants were one of the first plant groups to adapt to growing on the land. Few species can handle direct sunlight, making them ideal for shaded areas. Make sure to choose species adapted to the humidity of your local climate.
9. Vinca Minor (Vinca minor)
Also known as periwinkle or creeping myrtle, vinca minor vines are commonly used as ground cover with their shiny dark green foliage variegated in white or yellow. But vinca minor also makes a beautiful addition to baskets. Most cultivars put out blue flowers in spring, but some erupt in a magnificent display of lavender, white, or purple. They may occasionally bloom in summer.
10. Bleeding Heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis)
The classic bleeding heart is a stunning perennial plant when potted in hanging baskets. Its heart-shaped pinkish-red flowers dangle off an arching stem with a single hanging droplet to create blooms hard to forget. Plants only flower for a handful of weeks, but the time is extended when hung in a shady spot or partial sun.
11. Lobelia (Lobelia erinus)
Lobelia is classified as a tender perennial but is grown in most USDA zones as an annual. It belongs to the Campanulaceae or “bellflower” family. Fan-shaped flowers bloom in many shades of blue, making it one of the few flowering ornamentals with true blue blossoms. This low-maintenance plant self-cleans, so there is no need to deadhead spent flowers.
12. Trailing Bacopa (Sutera cordata)
Many people think trailing bacopa is the ultimate companion in shade-loving hanging baskets. It is easy to grow and looks magnificent, spilling over the sides of a basket. White, pink, or lavender blooms appear in spring against a beautiful backdrop of bluish-green foliage and keep coming until an autumn frost. In areas with mild winters, the plant flowers year-round.
Things To Consider With Hanging Baskets In The Shade
Baskets need well-draining potting soil and drainage holes in the bottom to prevent root rot because the potting mix doesn’t dry out as quickly as it does in bright sunlight.
Even though some plants are classified as full shade, they still need some sunlight, even if it’s dappled or filtered. Sunlight is required for photosynthesis.
Periodically check your baskets for fungal diseases during cool, wet periods since these climate conditions trigger fungal growth.
A green thumb is not just about planting plants; it is also about collecting their manure. If you use grass in your garden, then it will be easy to keep the soil fertile and reduce any waste.
Learn how to collect grass clippings and incorporate them into your garden
What makes grass clippings great for gardens?
Grass clippings can be converted to fertilize your garden. Decomposed grass clippings contain nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus.
These microorganisms, who rely primarily on organic substances and other nutrients, are sensitive to the environment in the area. Much like humans, they need clean water and air, as well as proper soil composition.
Why Grass Clippings make for a great lawn fertilizer
You can save money on fertilizer by allowing lawn clippings to drift back onto your lawn. It is easy to do – just leave the grass clippings where they are and the collected material will reduce your fertilizer consumption by up to 25%
If the grass clippings are cut too long. they will not decompose. The mulching mode on your lawn mower is a great way to cut the grass into smaller pieces, so use it for cutting the grass into shorter pieces.
Grass clippings help compost
You can’t make compost from only grass cuttings. However, mixing them in with other materials will help them break down more quickly and reduce the smell or chance of rot.
The compost pile will be more successful when you use leaves, twigs, branches, and other organic waste to do the decomposing. Grass clippings can be used in 1:1 or 2:1 proportion with dry organic matter.
Grass clippings are superior to leaves in autumn, so try to let them dry before adding them to the compost pile. Your finished product will be ready within 3 months this way.
Why Use Grass Clippings for Mulching
For removing your weeds, the best way is with the help of some weedkiller. Just make sure that you have not used any chemicals lately, or if so, instead use dried grass clippings for mulching in your garden!
Spread mulch on top of your plants and make sure it’s around 2-3 cm thick. Mulch prevents the evaporation of water, which is especially useful in drought conditions.
Making mulch is an easy way to have less work in the spring. You can lay ¼ inches thick or less if it’s fresh, as this will allow them to break down quickly before they begin rotting and smelling up whatever garden space they’re sitting on (or even worse…mold).
Clippings should be thoroughly dry before they are laid outdoors. Wet clippings are more prone to inviting mold growth on the surface, and too-wet layers will also seep down into the ground below and turn it muddy.
Browning Grass Clippings in the Vegetable Garden
Nitrogen is essential for plants. It’s especially helpful for those that need large amounts of it, like lettuce and green vegetables. Those vegetables can use these nutrients more efficiently when there is an abundance of nitrogen-loving grass in the yard.
You can use your grass clippings as mulch. The moist, thick layers will keep weeds from growing and make it easier when planting new plants in your yard.
Tired of buying fertilizers? Put grass clippings to use
Gardeners can obtain nutritious materials for their gardens by clipping the grass in a way that does not need maintenance for the rest of the year.
Incorporate 2-3 inches of grass clippings 6 inches deep in your garden soil. This will replace any lack of nutrients that may occur when fertilizing, and work as an Eco-friendly source.
To keep from mixing different types of weed seeds, be careful not to mix the different types when planting them in beds or on walkways.
Here’s how to use grass clippings as liquid fertilizer
If you want a 100% organic and effective fertilizer, take grass clippings. The N-P-K level is 1-0.5-3.1
To make the ultimate “Liquid Green Man” all one needs to do is fill up their bucket with two-thirds fresh cuttings from your lawn or garden. Fill the bucket with water and close the lid. Let it steep for three days to extract nutrients, then store it in an easily accessible place.
Soak your plants thoroughly. If in pots, apply up to a quart for a typical plant; if outside, about half a cup should do it. Make sure there is no seepage at the bottom of the pot before watering them again using your regular watering schedule.
Tips & Warnings For Using Grass Clippings
What is the best way to use grass clippings in your garden?
Grass clippings are a vital organic material for your compost pile. You should collect what you need, but also pick up any other organic matter that you have going in your garden as this can reduce the smell.
When grass clippings are added to a compost pile, they will heat up and decompose quickly.
Fresh grass clippings have a C: N ratio of around 20:1. Depending on what species and season, it can vary substantially and will affect how your lawn looks all year round!
The aromatic garlic is the perfect addition to every meal, but it also comes packed with tons of nutrients and a variety of medicinal properties.
Garlic is rich in important nutrients, such as flavonoids, oligosaccharides, amino acids, allicin and high levels of sulfur, while raw garlic also contains approximately 0.1 percent essential oil. Some of the main components of this oil include allyl propyl disulfide, diallyl disulfide, and diallyl trisulfide. A clove (approximately three grams) of raw garlic contains about:
4.5 calories
1 gram carbohydrates
0.2 gram protein
gram fiber
milligram manganese (3 percent DV)
0.9 milligram vitamin C (2 percent DV)
5.4 milligrams calcium (1 percent DV)
0.4 microgram selenium (1 percent DV)
Garlic is rich in antibacterial and antiviral compounds that prevent common colds and flu. Moreover, it is one of the most powerful heart-healthy foods. It regulates blood pressure, lowers high cholesterol levels, and keeps the arteries clean, preventing atherosclerosis.
Research has shown that garlic lowers fasting blood glucose, so it is beneficial in the case of type II diabetes.
Additionally, it contains antioxidants that may prevent Alzheimer’s and dementia, boosts athletic performance, and the sulfur compounds in garlic protect against organ damage from heavy metal toxicity.
According to a review published in Cancer Prevention Research, Allium vegetables, especially garlic and onions, and their bioactive sulfur compounds have effects at each stage of cancer formation and affect many biological processes that modify cancer risk.
That is why it has been used for centuries, and if you decide to grow it at home, you will reap all its benefits whenever you want.
Yet, don’t be afraid, as garlic is very easy to plant and grow. It can be planted in fall or spring, and it does well in cold climates and areas where water does not collect at the bottom of the soil, to prevent rot and disease infestation. Additionally, the small garlic plants take little space in the garden.
To boost the yield, plant it in a fertile, well-drained, and moist soil with a pH of 6.5-7, and you can set out a bed or plant it directly in the garden.
Make sure it is away from sage, peas, parsley, and asparagus, as they compete with it for nutrients. On the other hand, carrots, potatoes, spinach, and eggplants are great companion plants for it.
Follow these steps to grow garlic at home:
Choose a sunny spot in the garden, and rid of stones and dirt from the topsoil
Make a compost tea mixed with a few tablespoons of 5-10-10 NPK fertilizer and work it nicely into the soil
Break a garlic up into cloves, and bury it with the pointed ends facing upward, a few inches into the ground
Leave 4-6 inches space between the cloves, and the rows of beds can be spaced by 2-3 inches
Cover with about 1-2 inches of clear soil and put down 5-6 inches of mulch materials
Carefully water only when the topsoil is completely dry
Twice a month, add a teaspoon of low-decomposing compost, and a high-nitrogen fertilizer once monthly
To prevent its slow growth, cut off any flowers or weed stalks that bloom with the plants
In about three months, you should have 5 to 6 leaves sprouted already, ready to be harvested and enjoyed!
Scallion and green onion are the same thing. It depends on where it is available. The label might be says a scallion or green onion.
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Green onion or scallion with some short roots intact is the one we mostly see at the grocery store. The whole stalk is edible. It is fantastic for stir fry, soup or garnish.
The spring onion is similar one as the green onion. However, the spring onion is harvested before the bulb matures and turns into a full-size bulb. Therefore the spring onion is a green onion with a little bulb.
Spring onion is abundance sold at a farmer’s market in summer. It is a fantastic ingredient for salad, sandwiches, stir fry, or pickling.
PROPAGATING GREEN ONION
There are three ways to grow green onion. Grow green onion from seed, from cutting, and from the bulb. All methods are easy to do.
The easiest one is growing it from cuttings, and you will get an abundance of green onion in just a week, even if there is not enough space for a garden.
REGROW GREEN ONION INDOORS
Since the easiest one to propagate green onion is from cuttings, you can grow it directly in the soil or a glass of water.
If there is no space for a garden, or if it is still snowy winter weather and the gardening season is still far away, regrow those store-bought green onions in water indoors.
Start by cutting the green onion stalk. Reserve about 2-4 inches of the bottom part with the root intact, and use the greens for cooking.
Put 1.5 inches of water in a glass or mason jar. Put the green onion cuttings in the water. Leave the top part above the water.
Put the glass jar on the kitchen countertop, windowsill, or table.
Change the water every two days, or add more water if it evaporates.
Within a few days, the cutting part will show new growth on the top.
The green onion will be ready for harvest within a week or less.
HARVESTING REGREW GREEN ONION INDOORS
Since it grows indoors, you can get green onion whenever needed. Start by snipping the green part off as much as you need, and let it grow more.
Keep checking the water level. It is normal if the water is turning a bit slimy.
Remove the slimy part of the green onion stalk. Replace the water, then put the green onion back in the water.
CAN YOU GROW GREEN ONION IN THE FRIDGE
It is possible to regrow the green onion in water inside the fridge. However, based on my experience, the green part is pale and doesn’t have a strong flavour.
After one harvest, it is better to remove it from the fridge, change the water, and put the glass jar on the kitchen countertop or transplant it into the soil.
BENEFIT OF REGROWING GREEN ONION
Regrowing green onions in water is an easy gardening project and very rewarding.
Lots of benefits to doing so.
Save on budget. Of course, it is the most important one. Add it to the grocery shopping list one time and regrow it in the water or soil as a container garden.
Always have fresh green onion within reach whenever you need it.
It can grow anywhere indoors as long as there is space for a glass jar.
Growing tomato in a container is possible and doable even if you have never done a garden before. Tomato can grow anywhere as long as there is a suitable growing condition for it. If there is limited space in the yard or cold and short growing season, you can build a container garden instead.
TIPS TO GROW TOMATOES IN A CONTAINER
CHOOSE THE RIGHT SIZE CONTAINER
Tomato has an extensive root system. The smaller one like 2 or 3 gallons container works fine for the particular tomato variety. To prevent root bound, choose at least 5 gallons size container.
Some people have success growing tomato on a bucket. If you choose a bucket for a container garden, you have to make sure to drill drainage holes in the bottom.
You can also use tote plastic bins, wine barrels, resin barrels, terra cotta, or garbage bins. The most important is to make sure these containers have proper drainage holes in the bottom to prevent water pooling on the root system.
Clean the container if you use it in the previous season to prevent fungus or any plant disease. You can use bleach, vinegar, or dish soap to clean the pot before you get the container ready for planting.
USE POTTING MIX
Choose the proper growing mix that specifically for a container. Any hardware store, grocery store and garden center carry bagged potting mix ready to use.
It is not recommended to use garden soil, as it’s possible to carry pest or plant disease. Also, the potting soil mix is lighter in texture and contain trace minerals that plant needs.
ADD FERTILIZER INTO THE TOMATO HOLE
Add growing mix about 1/4 of the planter and put these seven things as the best fertilizers for tomato into the planting hole. Cover it with the rest of the soil mix before you put the tomato plant in.
CHOOSE THE RIGHT TOMATO VARIETY
There are indeterminate and determinate tomatoes, with so many varieties. It is better to choose determinate tomato for growing on a container.
PLANT TOMATO DEEPER
Always put the tomato plant deeper to make the plant well-rooted for better growth. You stripe off the two lower leaves include the suckers that might already pop up before plant it.
GROW COMPANION PLANTS
Growing tomatoes in a container would still get benefit from companion planting. These flowers and herbs are excellent companion plants for tomatoes. These plants attract beneficial insects as well as improves the taste of the fruits.
Unless you use a self-watering planter, keep watering the container frequently, especially during hot summer. It is best to water it in the early morning on the soil surface, so it has time to dry up before night.
You can also put mulch such as untreated grass clipping, fall season leaves, straw, or cedar mulch to keep the soil moist.
POSITION THE CONTAINER IN THE FULL SUN
Tomato grows better in the full sun for at least 6-8 hours a day. Observe the sun exposure in the yard, and it could be in the deck, pathway, or even by the side of the garage.
However, it doesn’t mean consecutive direct full sun all day long. It could be six hours morning sun and continue with two hours afternoon sun which is still desirable for tomato plants.
PUT TOMATO CAGE /STAKE FOR SUPPORT
You might want to put the tomato cage for the growing support. Even some determinate tomatoes will be heavy with fruits when it grows in a suitable condition.
REMOVE THESE TOMATO PLANT SUCKERS
You might need to remove these suckers so that the plant will focus on growing fruit on the main stem only. I tend to leave up to three suckers, especially the cherry tomato variety.
WHAT TO DO WITH TOMATO PLANTS IN A CONTAINER WHEN FIRST FROST IS COMING
The first frost can come earlier or later date depending on the growing zone. It is not a surprise when the first frost is coming as early as the first week of September here in the place where I live. There are things you can prepare when the colder weather come for tomato plants.
You can cover the plant and the container with frost blanket if warmer days are coming later on. You can pick all tomato fruits and also these green ones and do these four different methods to ripen green tomatoes indoors.
A container garden is portable, and you definitely can extend the growing season. Put the pot indoor by the window to get the maximum sun exposure. Always make sure to clean the plant from bugs or any pest that may be infecting the houseplant before you move it indoors.
If you are terrible with plants, the sweetheart or heartleaf philodendron is a perfect type for you.
From potting to watering, here are 5 great tips for caring for your plants.
With the right care and conditions, Philodendron may thrive
Philodendrons can survive in low light, but they eschew direct sunlight. These plants grow faster with higher indirect light and will produce more leaves with medium or indirect light.
Philodendrons are hard to kill, so how do you keep it alive?
You can maintain your philodendron by either watering it or letting it grow in water. You should mix half of the soil with dry sand and then do either a light or heavy watering at necessary times to ensure optimal growth.
If the leaves of your philodendron are wilted, give them more water and they will perk up again.
To grow a philodendron, it is necessary to give it soil and water, then monitor its drinking habits. If the plant starts to drink more than usual, the amount of water given should be reduced.
In particular, it is worth noting that if you transplant a Philodendron, they may not do so well.
Why potted philodendrons are more difficult than they sound
Potted philodendrons bring life and color to your home. Be thoughtful about well-drained soil, as they require that. After a few years, you might want to move them into another pot with fresh potting mix. It’s also important to avoid over-hydration by using smaller pots often.
Use pots that have drainage holes and make sure not to keep water sitting underneath them or else you will kill them.
Read about Philodendron growth and fertilizing requirements.
Philodendrons can survive for years without fertilization, and should still be fertilized monthly. In the spring and summer, give them half strength houseplant fertilizer every month, and in winter and fall, give them full strength houseplant runoff once every other.
Alternatively, fertilize your plants every 2-3 months. Fertilize when they are producing new leaves in order to prevent any harm on the other parts of their system.
See what you can do to keep your philodendron alive
Make sure to prune the philodendron regularly, you want it happy and lush.
So, you should trim the shrubs so they don’t look overgrown. If you choose scissors, shears, or your fingernails to trim the shrub, go at it soon.
Learn how to grow and propagate this common houseplant
A new addition to your garden is as easy as cutting off a couple of nodes from the stem and planting it in the soil for rapid growth.
You can grow the cutting instantly.
Philodendron Toxicity
Philodendron can be harmful to one’s health. Never consume any part of the vine, as it could cause discomfort like burning in the mouth and throat; nausea; diarrhea among other toxic symptoms.
Philodendrons are toxic to animals, and signs of poisoning include pain in the mouth, swelling in the mouth, lips and tongue. In some cases, skin could show irritation from sap contact as further evidence.
Are you wondering how to repel spiders naturally? With spider mating season around the corner, you may find the eight-legged insects creeping around your bathroom, kitchen and living room more than usual.
“There’s many old-wives’ tales about how conkers can repel spiders – but many don’t know that a lot of fragrant houseplants can do just that,” Evie Lane, Gardening Expert at Primrose, says. “Most spider-deterring plants have a strong odour since aromatic plants are generally more effective at repelling insects – but they still smell great in your home too.”
Wondering how to banish the pesky creatures for good? Take a look at the popular plants that can repel them below…
1. Basil
Basil is great at repelling spiders, as well as other bugs such as ants, houseflies and mosquitoes. It might be a popular culinary herb, but its fragrant scent will keep the creepy crawlies at bay. Simply get your hands on a few basil pots and place them around entry points in the home.
“The herb can be grown in any area of your home, as long as it gets access to direct sunlight for four to five hours per day,” Evie adds.
2. Lavender
If you’re looking to avoid noxious chemicals, lavender is a safe and effective alternative for getting rid of spiders. Simply take a cutting from your lavender bush, tie it together in a small bunch and then hang in each room of your house. As well as bringing beautiful fragrance to your home, its strong scent will have your eight-legged roommates crawling away in no time.
3. Mint
If you’re someone who shrieks when you see spiders, you may want to try peppermint to get rid of them. All you need to do is pluck a few fresh mint leaves and place them inside a spray bottle with water. Leave to absorb and then spray around entry points in your home, targeting areas such as windowsills and doorways.
4. Rose
“Rosemary is faintly scented for the human nose but releases an intense odour to spiders,” Evie explains. “Make sure you’re growing it indoors though – rosemary is less cold tolerant so will thrive in a standalone pot in a warmer environment.”
5. Chrysanthemum
Many gardeners use chrysanthemums as companion plants to repel spiders, ants, ticks, fleas, spider mites, cockroaches and even bed bugs. Not only will the bright blooms liven up your home, but their pyrethrum ingredient will naturally repel any unwanted spiders without harming them.
6. Eucalyptus
Thanks to the distinctly earthy aroma of its oil, eucalyptus makes a great repellent for spiders, mosquitoes and other pests. All you need to do is add a few fresh sprigs around your bathroom, kitchen, living room and entryway to keep them at bay. If that still isn’t working, Evie explains you can also mix a few leaves with witch hazel and water to make a nifty spray. Simply spritz any areas to prevent spiders from making webs.
7. Marigolds
“Allotment keepers have been planting marigolds next to vegetables for generations – and for good reason,” Evie says. “Marigolds will repel nearly every small pest known, including spiders, snails and bugs. By placing fragrant plants throughout your home and investing in a cruelty-free spider catcher, your home will be pleasantly spider free this autumn.”
8. Citronella plants
Known for being an effective bug repellent, citronella plants can grow happily in many types of different soil. If you want to keep these sweet-smelling plants indoors, make sure you give them as much sunlight as possible to keep them bushy and more sturdy. Much like lavender, it’s a good idea to give these plants artificial light during the dark winter months.
9. Lemon balm
This bushy perennial, famous for its lemon-scented leaves and pale purple flowers in summer, is a member of the mint family. If you’re struggling with spiders during the autumn season, consider placing a potted lemon balm on a sunny window sill (they need around six hours of sunlight each day). Easy to grow from seeds, they are excellent at driving away common insects, such as fruit flies and spiders.
There is one basic role that applies when it comes to using fertilizers – “less is more”. If you apply too much fertilizer or a concentration that is too strong, you could do much more harm than good. You can harm plant roots and soon you will see the tell-tale symptoms of fertilizer burn – brown curled leaf edges and leaves that wither and fall from the stem.
We have prepared a list of 15 homemade fertilizers that are inexpensive and helpful! So, take a look at the list bellow.
Easy Household Fertilizers
There are quite a few common items found in your kitchen, or elsewhere around the house, that can be used as plant fertilizer.
Aquarium Water
Water the plants with the aquarium water that you took right out of the tank when you cleaned it. Freshwater only, do not use water from a salt water tank. The fish waste makes a great plant fertilizer!
Banana
Bananas are not only beneficial for us people, but for plants too. When you plant roses, bury a banana in the hole alongside the rose. As the rose is growing, bury bananas or banana peels into the top layer of the soil. You will provide the needed potassium for a proper plant growth.
Blackstrap Molasses
– Blackstrap molasses is an excellent source of many different nutrients that plants use. This includes carbon, iron, sulfur, potash, calcium, manganese, potassium, copper and magnesium. What makes this an excellent type of fertilizer is that it feeds beneficial bacteria, which keep the soil and plants healthy. To use blackstrap molasses as a fertilizer, mix it with another all-purpose fertilizer. A good combination to use is one cup each of epsom salts and alfalfa meal. Dissolve this combination in four gallons of water and top it off with one tablespoon of blackstrap molasses. Or simply mix blackstrap molasses in with compost tea. Do this only after the compost tea has steeped.
Coffee Ground
Used coffee grounds contain about 2 percent nitrogen, about a third of a percent of phosphoric acid, and varying amounts of potash (generally less than one percent). Coffee grounds are particularly useful on those plants that like things a bit more acidic such as blueberries, evergreens, azaleas, roses, camellias, avocados, and many fruit trees. Scatter the grounds around your plants when the coffee grounds are dry!
Cooking Water
– Many different nutrients are released into the water that food is cooked in. Water that is used to boil potatoes, vegetables, eggs, and even pasta can be used as a fertilizer. Just remember to let the water cool before applying it to your soil.
Corn Gluten Meal
Corn gluten meal it is used not only as an organic preemergent herbicide, but also as a fertilizer that is 10 percent nitrogen. Just spread a thin layer of corn gluten meal and scratch it into the top inch of soil. Plant veggie starts inside the treated area for optimum nitrogen benefit and do not worry about accidentally harming your plants. .
Egg Shells
You have probably heard that eggshells are very beneficial for the plants as they contain 1% nitrogen, a half-procent phosphoric acid and other elements that make them a fertilizer. Calcium is a necessary plant nutrient that plays a significant part in cell manufacture and growth. Simply crush the egg shells, powder them in an old coffee griner, and sprinkle them around the soil in your garden.
Epsom Salt
1 tablespoon of Epsom salt can be combined with 1 gallon of water and put into a sprayer. Apply once a month, directly to the foliage for a quick dose of magnesium and sulfur.
Fireplace or Fire Pit Ash
You can sprinkle ashes onto your soil to supply potassium and calcium carbonate. The best is hard wood, but make sure you don’t use charcoal or lighter fluid since you can harm the plants. In areas where you are trying to maintain acid-loving plants ash is not recommended.
Gelatin
Geltain is a great nitrogen source. So, dissolve 1 package of gelatin in one cup of hot water and add three cups of cold water. Pour this directly on the soil around your plants once per month.
Green Tea
A weak solution of green tea can be used to water plants every four weeks. Use one teabag to two gallons of water.
Hair
Hair is a good source of nitrogen and it does double duty as a deer repellent. A good source for this hair is not only your hairbrush but also the local barbershop or beauty salon. However, you can also use dog hair, horse hair, and cat hair that will work just as well.
Horse Feed
What makes horse feed irresistible to horses is also what makes it an excellent fertilizer. The magic ingredient is molasses. To use horse feed as a fertilizer just sprinkle it on top of the soil. Alternatively, you can dissolve it in water alone or combined with another organic fertilizer, and apply as a soil drench.
Matches
Matches are a great source of magnesium. To use this as a fertilizer, simply place the whole match in the hole with the plant, or soak the matches in water.
Powdered Milk
Powdered milk is not only good for human consumption but also for plants. This source of calcium needs to be mixed in to the soil prior to planting.
