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This can be a difficult question to answer for gardeners because of complex factors like temperature, lighting, watering, soil needs, and even the length of the growing season.

This article will help solve this problem with 5 EASY Steps for growing lavender from seed indoors.

And I recommend scrolling to the bottom of this page to find answers to the 6 most frequently asked questions most gardeners have when growing lavender from seed.

Step #1: Start Lavender Seeds Indoors

You should start your lavender seeds indoors 8 weeks before the last frost to help minimize the risk of weather, pests, and disease.

 

  • Begin by taking a 3 inch Peat Pot and fill it up to approximately 80% full with Seed Starting Mix. Seed starting mix will provide your lavender seeds with the nutrients it needs for the best growth.

 

  • Place your gardening pot into a tray. This will make it easy to move your pots from indoors to your garden and will prevent a mess that can happen from spilled dirty or water that may overflow.

 

  • Next, spray your soil 5 to 8 times with a spray bottle. You will want the soil to be moist, not damp. Moisture promotes seed germination, but damp soil can cause unwanted fungus.

 

  • Then take 2 to 3 lavender seeds, plant them 1/8 inch deep (size of a pencil tip) and gently brush the soil over them.

 

  • Then spray again 5 to 8 times until the soil turns a darker shade of brown.

 

Related: Here is the BEST Time to Start Lavender Seeds Indoors

 

Step #2: Provide the Right Amount of Heat, Light, & Water

 

Once you initially sow your lavender seeds, you then have to provide the right amount of heat, light, and water for 8 straight weeks for your seeds to germinate and plant to grow.

 

  • You should provide your lavender seeds 8 hours of light a day by placing it by a sunny window or under a Grow Light (4 inches away from the light) if your windows do not receive enough sunlight. Continue providing 8 hours of sunlight until you transplant your lavender seedlings into a herb garden.

 

  • Then spray your soil twice a day for approximately 10 days until your seeds germinate or pop through the soil. Continue spraying twice until your lavender plant is 3 inches tall (this may take another 2 weeks).

 

  • You will also want to keep the room temperature between 65 – 70 degrees Fahrenheit so that your seeds can turn into plants. If you don’t have an area that will stay that warm, a Heat Mat is a great alternative.

 

Step #3: Transplant your Lavender Seedlings into a Larger Pot (Indoors)!

Once your lavender seedlings reach about 3 inches tall you will need to transplant them into a larger pot.

 

  • Before transplanting, you need to take scissors and snip the smallest plants right at the soil line. This will allow the healthier lavender plant to grow to its full potential.
    • Next, take a 5 gallon pot, fill it 80% full with potting mix and then dig a hole 3 inches deep (the size of your lavender plant).

 

  • Then place it in your 5 gallon pot and fill it with soil. The soil should go no higher than the base of the lavender plant (where the plant meets the roots).

 

  • Spray the soil 5 to 10 times until the soil turns dark.

 

  • Leave your lavender plant in this pot and continue to spray it once a day (for 5 to 10 times) until the last chance of frost. Also, continue to keep it in sunlight for 8 hours a day and at temperatures of 65- 70 degrees fahrenheit.

 

Step #4: Introduce your Lavender Outdoors

 

Introducing your lavender outdoors is what most beginner gardeners miss, but it is critical to your success.

 

  • For about two weeks, you will want to slowly introduce your lavender outside.

 

  • On the first day, you will want to place your lavender outside (in pots) for approximatley 2 hours. Each day thereafter, place the lavender outside for an additional hour until you build up to 6 straight hours. Don’t forget to bring your lavender inside if there is a frost or if there is poor weather like strong winds that can destroy your plant.

 

 

Step #5: Transplant Lavender Plants into a Herb Garden

Once the last frost of the year has happened you can transplant your Tomates outside. Never do it before because you risk your plant quickly dying.

  • About 1 month before you plan on transplanting your lavender into a garden, dig holes in an area that will receive at least 8 hours of light. Dig the hole about 8 inches deep and fill it 30% full with compost. Space the holes 12 – 18 inches apart to promote full growth.

 

  • After the last frost transplant your lavender into the garden by simply turning over your gardening pot, pinching the bottom of the pot, and slowly pulling your plant out. Place your lavender plant into the hole and fill it with garden soil (to where the soil meets the base of the plant). It is also beneficial to add a 6 inch layer of mulch around your plant.

 

  • Immediately after you transplant your lavender outside add Plant Food and water the soil for about 30 seconds.

 

  • Finally, water your lavender once a day for about 30 seconds in the morning or evening to minimize the chance of evaporation. Continue doing this every day until you harvest your lavender mid-summer.

 

Frequently Asked Questions (6 Questions)

 

#1. What type of Lavender Variety Seeds should I use?

 

There are four types of seeds that can be used to grow lavender; heirloom, organic, hybrid, and GMO.

 

I recommend using heirloom or hybrid lavender seeds. Gardeners do not have access to GMO seeds and organic seeds are a marketing term and not truly a type of seed.

 

A. Heirloom Lavender

 

  • Heirloom lavender seeds contain lavender’s original traits, meaning it will produce some of the most beautiful and best tasting lavender out there.

 

  • The downside of this type of seed is that it is the costliest (due to its rarity). In addition, expect the least amount of yield from this type of seed due to the susception of disease and other elements.

 

B. Hybrid Lavenders

 

  • Hybrid lavender seeds were made by combining the genes of the same group of plants. This is not a bad thing. The goal with hybrids is to produce a plant that contains the best features of both parent plants.

 

  • This type of seed is what most gardeners use when learnings how to grow lavender from seed and is critical if you want the most resistant plant against mother nature’s elements, insects, and diseases or want the most yield.

 

 

#2. What are the BEST Lavender to Grow from Seed?

 

While there are hundreds of varieties of lavender you can grow, I am recommending 3 types to choose from.

 

When the typical gardener thinks of Lavender they are thinking of English Lavender!

 

This is a great type of lavender when you are just beginning to learn how to grow lavender from seed because it’s hardy, grows plentiful, and easy to maintain.

 

It blooms in late spring or early summer and flowers with shades of purple. The plant itself has leaves that are a grayish-green color.

 

This is a great option for edging along walkways, raised beds, or even garden beds.

 

 

B) French Lavender

 

If you are interested in learning how to grow lavender from seed for mild winters then you’ll want to plant French Lavender.

 

French Lavender is more colorful but less fragrant than English or Lavandin Lavenders. It gives off a pine and camphor smell, which makes it perfect for potpourri or sachet.

 

This type of lavender needs to be planted by sheltered borders or in pots and will flower in early summer to early fall for year-round colors.

 

This lavender is also a great option to plant in dry climates or in pots, and it is deer and rabbit resistant.

 

C) Lavandin

 

  • Scientific Name: Lavandula X intermedia

 

 

  • Length & Width: 2.5 feet x 2.5 feet

 

 

  • Hardiness Zone: 5 to 9

 

 

  • Flowers: May

 

 

If you are looking for a Lavender plant that is more tolerant of both heat and cold then look no further than Lavandin.

 

Lavandin is a hybrid lavender plant that is more vigorous, but less hardy than the English and French varieties.

 

It blooms mid to late summer and it has long spikes that are highly fragrant and features shades of dark violet and white. This makes it perfect to dry and add fragrance to a room.

 

This is the perfect plant for mass planting, hedges, herb garden, borders, and even rock gardens.

 

 

#3. What Type of Fertilizer Should I Use for My Lavender?

 

And if you don’t have the time or ability to create compost then I recommend buying Peat Moss or Plant Food for your lavender.

  • What I like about this product is that you only have to apply it once every 3 months and it contains natural ingredients and micronutrients that support root strength and plant development.

 

  • In addition, the benefit of compost, peat moss, or plant food is that it will provide you lavender will the nitrogen that is critical to plant growth and an abudance of lavender.

 

#4. What Type of Soil Should I Use for My Lavender Plants?

 

If you will be keeping your lavender plants in containers all year then you will want a well-draining potting mix that provides the correct amount of nutrients like Miracle-Gro Potting Mix.

 

If you will be planting your lavender into a garden then you will want to add a nutritious garden soil mix into the ground, such as Miracle-Gro Expand N Gro.

 

And as an added bonus I highly recommend adding a 6-inch layer of mulch around your lavender plant (whether in the ground or in a pot) to help minimize evaporation, fungus, and diseases.

 

#5. How Do I Care for my Lavender Plants Once they begin growing?

 

Below are caring tips for your lavender throughout the summer:

 

  • Keep Your Soil Healthy – Quickly inspect your soil for fungus, harmful worms, and weeds before you plant and throughout the summer. Remove and replace it with new soil as needed.

 

  • Mulch – Mulch around your plants with compost at the beginning of the year. Using mulch will minimize evaporation and protect your lavender plants from fungus, disease, and weather.

 

 

  • Water the soil, not the plants. By watering leaves you increase the risk of spreading fungus and other diseases. And increase the risk of evaporation.

 

    • Remove diseased and dead plants. This is the easiest way to prevent the spread of deadly diseases. If you notice yellow spots on leaves it means you have blight fungus and will want to remove the leaves.

 

  • Plants your lavender at a new spot yearly. This is key to preventing seasonal diseases and insects from attacking the same plants year in and year out.

 

  • Prevent Insects. The best way to prevent them is through an insecticide. If you don’t want spider mites, stink bugs, or Japanese beetles ruining all your hard work I recommend purchasing Sevin Bug Killer.

Do you have a few favorite “go-to” herbs? Why not grow them in water and keep them close at hand on the kitchen window sill or right on the counter?

Water-grown herbs are just as flavorsome as those you grow in the garden. You don’t have to mess with soil or worry about regular watering or changing seasons.

Most herbs will be happy growing in water, but those propagated from cuttings are easier to start in water.

Seed-grown annuals like cilantro, mustard, and dill are a bit tricky because you need to sow the seeds in soil or some other medium and then transfer the seedlings to water.

Soil to water transition is not impossible, but it may not always work out because soil-grown roots are a bit different from water roots.

What You Need to Grow Herbs in Water

Water

For a simple herb stand in the kitchen, you can root herb cuttings in plain water in glass bottles.

Avoid using chlorinated water directly as the bleaching chemical is not exactly friendly to plant tissues. Tap water that has been left to air overnight is fine, so is stored rainwater.

Spring water or well water is the best because it has some amount of dissolved minerals that may be of use to plants.

Containers

As for the container, mason jars or any other glass bottles will do, even plastic bottles.

Roots generally like to grow away from light, so colored bottles, especially amber colored ones (such as these) are best. You can just wrap a piece of paper around the bottle to keep the root zone in the dark.

This will even prevent algal growth on the container walls and on the root surface. Algae do not adversely affect plant growth, but they make the bottles look untidy.

Narrow-mouthed containers have an advantage: they can support the cuttings and keep them nearly upright. However, the mouth of the container shouldn’t be too narrow or tight-fitting around the cutting.

The roots have to breathe, and the mouth of the container should allow free movement of air.

If you’re using a wide-mouthed container, you have the option of covering the top with nylon or wire netting. Insert the cuttings through the holes, and that will offer some support to the cuttings.

Another advantage, especially in warmer areas, is that the netting prevents mosquitoes from laying eggs in the water and multiplying.

Plant cuttings   

Soft cuttings are pretty quick to root in water. You don’t need to use any rooting hormones. If you have some herbs growing in the garden, snip off 6-inch sections from growing tips and put them in the water-filled containers.

The best part of growing herbs from cuttings is that you can use the ones you get from the supermarket. Just wash them in plain water and cut off the lower portion.

Remove lower leaves from cuttings and trim the lower tips close to the nodes from where the roots arise. When they are inserted into the bottles, there shouldn’t be any leaves touching the water. They can rot easily and spoil the water, as they do in flower vases.

Woody cuttings like rosemary may take longer to root, so be patient. Change the water once a week without disturbing the cuttings. Once the roots start growing, usually between 2-6 weeks, water changes may not be necessary.

If you have willow trees in the garden, you can steep some branches in warm water overnight to make a natural rooting hormone mix. Place the cuttings in the infusion to encourage rooting. Alternately, rooting hormone powder can be used.

10 Best Herbs You Can Grow In Water

1. Peppermint

This is the most popular mint for medicinal uses because it contains high amounts of the volatile substance menthol. It gives a unique cooling sensation on the skin or tongue, but without actually causing any temperature variation.

Growing peppermint in water is easy; just put fresh cuttings in water to grow new plants.

2. Spearmint

This is another mint variety closely related to peppermint. In fact, peppermint is a natural hybrid of spearmint and an aquatic mint that is commonly known as water mint.

3. Oregano

This pungent herb is worth growing indoors because you can use the leaves to flavor almost any vegetable.

Take cuttings of fresh growth and pot them up in water. Start pinching the growing tips as soon as the plant starts to grow well.

4. Basil

Basil would love the warmth of your kitchen and grow happily in a water-filled container as long as you provide it good light.

Take cuttings any time before it starts flowering. If you have several varieties of basil, growing cuttings in water is the best way to preserve your collection during winter.

5. Sage

Take soft cuttings in the spring and root them in water. You may need only one or two sage plants because only very tiny amounts are needed to impart flavor. Keep the plants in bright light and in a well-aerated place because this herb is prone to mildew.

6. Stevia

This sweet plant is good to have in the house to add to freshly brewed teas and beverages.

Take cuttings of actively growing soft branches and place them in water. Provide a warm place and as much light as possible to keep this tropical plant happy and full of sweetness.

7. Lemon balm

The lemony scent of this mint-family herb is a welcome treat in any home, especially in the winter. The leaves are great for making tea. Take cuttings in spring or fall. Keep the containers in a warm place that receives plenty of bright indirect light. They may take up to 3-4 weeks to develop roots. Keep the water clean with regular changes.

Some people find it easier to root the cuttings outside the house when the weather’s still warm. It may help avoid white mildew that lemon balm is prone to. You can bring them indoors when the new plants are well established.

8. Tarragon

Take cuttings in the spring after new growth appears. Fall cuttings are fine too, but they may take longer to grow roots. Keep cuttings in a warm place that gets bright light. French tarragon is best as a culinary herb. Russian tarragon is milder, or even bland, so use it as a green in salads.

9. Thyme

You need to take cuttings of new growth that is green in color. The old growth that has become stiff and brown may not sprout roots easily. The best time to take the cuttings is mid-spring to early summer, before the plant starts flowering. The thin stems of thyme can dry out very fast, so put them in water as soon as you cut them. Spray the portion above the water, if necessary. Once it starts growing, cut the stems to promote branching.

10. Rosemary

The semi-woody cuttings of rosemary take longer to root, but spring cuttings of new shoots may be faster. Either way, it is worth the effort because rosemary makes an excellent indoor plant for a sunny spot.

9 Best Houseplants To Grow In Water

Not just herbs, but other houseplants do equally well in water. Just perfect for you if you regularly kill houseplants by over watering them or forgetting to water altogether. You don’t need to make any special arrangements when you go off for a few days.

Pothos

This plant is commonly grown in water. Take tip cuttings of any length and put the cut end into some water making sure that 2-3 nodes are submerged in water.

Arrowhead

This plant is similar to pothos. Tip cuttings can be potted up with a few nodes below the water level.

Philodendrons

Dainty heart-leaved philodendrons, as well as the large, split-leaved types do equally well in water. Take 6-8 inch cuttings of growing tips and put in a container that can support its weight. You may need to place a piece of rock in the container to prevent accidental tipping.

Peace lily

You can pot up divisions or use an entire plant growing in a pot. Just wash off all the soil from the roots and put it in a bowl of water.

Aluminum plant

Cuttings of this beautiful plant with silver markings do very well in water.

Dracena

The plant commonly grown in water as Chinese lucky bamboo incidentally is no bamboo, but a variety of dracaena (Dracaena braunii). Others like corn plant (D. fragrans), Song of India (D. reflexa) are good choices. Sections of the cane can be rooted and grown in water, but support is essential for these top heavy plants.

Dieffenbachia (Dumb cane)

Cut top growth and pot up in water after the cut end becomes dry. Care must be taken while handling this plant; its sap is so caustic, it can burn your skin.

Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema)

Take cuttings or clean whole plants growing in pots and put them in large containers of water.

Chlorophytum (Spider plant, Airplane plant)

Put large plantlets or entire plants cleaned of all soil particles in goldfish bowls full of water. Water culture is best for hanging plants because you don’t need to water them often.

6 Best Vegetables To Grow In Water

Watercress, water chestnut, wasabi, and lotus are some of the food plants that naturally grow in water. But many terrestrial vegetables can adapt to growing in water.

Some, like leafy greens such as lettuce and spinach, do extremely well.

They seem to be happier than their counterparts growing in the ground because they get a continuous supply of water and are not bothered by soil pathogens.

Lettuce

This is the most favorite vegetable of hydroponic farmers. The easiest way to grow them hydroponically is to start the seeds in netted cups. When they are bigger, insert them into the beds containing growing medium.

Spinach

This leafy vegetable is grown the same way as lettuce.

Tomatoes

Tomato seeds started in individual cups are inserted into the growing medium. High yields are typical of hydroponically cultivated tomatoes.

Peppers

Their cultural requirements are similar to tomatoes.

Cucumbers

Bush type cucumbers are preferred for hydroponics; the climbing type would need extra support.

Celery

Being able to grow celery without soil is a bonus; it means no dirt deposited in the leaf bases. It makes cleaning the vegetable very easy.

How To Feed Water-Grown Plants

Plants growing in plain water will soon exhaust what little mineral nutrients the water may contain. Since they don’t have access to the nutrients naturally occurring in soil, they need supplemental nutrition to do well.

Regular fertilizers diluted in water or proprietary formulations designed for hydroponics can be used at regular intervals.

When you use fertilizers to feed water grown plants, they leave some residues that may accumulate in the water and on the roots, causing root burn. Change the water at regular intervals and flush the plants and the containers occasionally.

Hydroponics – Growing Plants in Water and Inert Media

Soil has some functions other than providing minerals required for plant growth,. It supports the plants and provides a medium for anchoring the roots. When plants are grown without soil, the lack of proper support can be a limiting factor. Soil acts as a reservoir of water and fertilizers added to it, and then releases both in a controlled manner.

Inert natural media like sand, gravel, perlite, vermiculite coconut fiber, and coconut chips are sometimes added to water containers to serve as support. Some products like lightweight expanded clay and rock wool are specially manufactured for this purpose.

Plants grown in a hydroponic medium seem to appreciate the physical support they get. Special nutrient formulations are mixed with water to provide continuous nourishment to the plants. That’s why hydroponic systems typically give very high yield.

Types of Hydroponic Systems

Wick system – The plants grow in tubs filled with an absorbent medium like coco-peat that can wick up nutrient-rich water from a bottom reservoir. It is somewhat like growing plants in soil, except that the nutrients come from the water, not the medium.

Deep Water Culture – It is almost same as the simple system described for growing plants directly in containers of water. The roots remain suspended in water, but the plants are actually growing in another container partially immersed in the main water container. Sometimes Styrofoam sheets with holes are used for suspending the plants.

The water in the main container is agitated or aerated with an aquarium pump. This extra aeration to the root zone helps reduce disease and keeps the roots healthy and strong. The main drawback is that power is required to run the system.

Instead of allowing the roots to remain submerged in water all the time, different types of arrangements for intermittent exposure have been developed. This allows more air-circulation around the roots, helping reduce root zone diseases.

Falling water – Nutrient solution is supplied to the beds from overhead sprinklers. It percolates down by gravity and gets recirculated. The root zone gets good air circulation, but the system involves pumping water for recirculation.

Flood and drain – The plants growing in the bed of inert medium are watered by intermittent flooding of the beds with the nutrient solution. The bed is them allowed to drain, exposing the roots to air.

Aeroponics

This is an improvement on hydroponics where growing medium is done away with. Plants are grown in holes cut into large pipes so that their roots remain inside the pipe. Nutrient solution is sprayed on to this root zone.

Aquaponics

This is a combination of hydroponics and aquaculture in which fish and other aquatic life are grown. It does away with the proprietary nutrient solutions used in hydroponics, replacing it with the nutrient-rich water discarded from aquaculture tanks.

The system uses an inert medium that gets colonized by microorganisms capable of breaking down aquaculture waste products. The water thus cleaned and filtered by the hydroponic bed gets recirculated into the aquaculture tanks.

A simple replication of aquaponics would be growing herbs, watercress or microgreens on Styrofoam sheets floating in an aquarium tank with their roots absorbing the nutrients generated from fish waste.

It is truly amazing the number of plants that can be grown without soil.  If you are ready for a change from conventional gardening why not try your green thumb at water gardening?

Plants do so much for us and ask for so little in return. Simply being in their presence confers a broad range of benefits – when we are around them the air is cleaner and more humid, we are happier and less stressed, we work harder and more effectively, and we heal faster and feel less pain.

Indeed, we are wise to keep these living greens close by. Not only do they add beauty and lushness to your indoor spaces, choosing fragrant varieties means they can also take the place of artificial air fresheners too.

Here we’ve rounded up the most aromatic plants that adapt well to life indoors.

1. Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis)

Lemon balm is a bushy, perennial herb of the mint family. Though humble in appearance, when lemon balm’s serrate, oval leaves are lightly brushed or rubbed between the fingertips, it releases a fragrant lemony scent.

Beyond its aromatic properties, lemon balm is an eminently useful specimen to have around. Clip the leaves often to flavor soups, salads, sauces and ice cream. You may also steep the leaves to make lemon balm tea, a therapeutic beverage for lifting mood, improving sleep, relieving pain, and more.

As a houseplant, lemon balm is easy to grow and very low maintenance. Place it on a window ledge that receives up to 5 hours of direct sunlight each day.

Pick up organic, non-GMO lemon balm seeds here.

2. English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)

The purple spiked plant beloved by natural health enthusiasts, lavender is another herb with dozens of wonderful benefits for health and home.

Though there are several types to choose from, English lavender is one of the more aromatic varieties. Keep it blooming by providing lots of sunlight and good air flow. It also prefers a spacious pot with a couple inches between plantings and monthly feedings.

Heirloom organic English lavender seeds can be purchased here.

3. White Jasmine (Jasminum polyanthum)

A twining vine that produces clusters of star-shaped flowers, white jasmine provides the sweet smell of summer during the winter months. It is also known as pink jasmine or many flowered jasmine.

Keep white jasmine happy by placing it in a sunny, humid spot. It looks lovely in a pot or hanging basket, just be sure to add a stake or trellis so its clinging vines have something to grasp on to.

Purchase white jasmine starter plants here.

4. Gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides)

Although it made our short list of the worst plants to grow in your garden, gardenia might be tough but she sure is beautiful. If you are up to the challenge, this gorgeous diva just might reward you with a show of exquisite, sweetly fragrant blooms.

Gardenia requires bright, indirect light and temperatures above 60°F at all times. It prefers acidic soil, bi-weekly feedings, and a consistently moist growing medium.

A 2-pack of live gardenia plants can be purchased here.

5. Citrus Tree (Citrus spp.)

Lemon, lime, orange, and other citrus fruit plants can add fruity scents to your indoor garden. Dwarfed into miniature trees, citrus needs sunshine and warmth to produce small fragrant blossoms that smell like their fruit.

Citrus plants tend to be thirsty so give them a good watering regularly and feed with an all-purpose fertilizer in spring and summer.

While you can grow citrus plants from seed, you will have to wait around six years for it to mature enough to bloom. If you don’t want to wait that long, pick up a 3-pack of orange, lime, and lemon starter plugs here.

6. Twinkle Orchid (Oncidium)

Though orchids in general are not known for their fragrance, this Oncidium hybrid blooms with hundreds of dime-sized flowers that emit a spicy vanilla scent.

Despite their reputation, orchid species aren’t too difficult to care for provided you give them plenty of bright, indirect light. Choose a spot with high humidity and temperatures between 70 to 85°F during the day and 55 to 65° at night. Because twinkle orchids are epiphytes, pot them in an orchid mix of fir bark and peat moss.

Purchase Twinkle Orchid ‘Fragrant Fantasy’ here.

7. Scented Leaf Geranium (Pelargonium spp.)

Though scented geraniums bear delicate 5-petaled flowers in summer, their strong fragrance is released when the thick, fuzzy foliage is touched or rubbed.

It comes in several scents – P. capitatum (rose), P. crispum (lemon), P. denticulatum (pine), P. fragrans (apple), P. grossularoides (coconut), P. tomentosum (chocolate mint).

Whatever variety you choose, place scented geranium in a sunny spot that receives at least five hours of sunlight per day.

Pick up rose scented geranium seeds here.

8. Stephanotis (Marsdenia floribunda)

With attractive dark green leaves that look good no matter the season, stephanotis is a vining plant that produces clusters of waxy, sweet smelling flowers in spring and summer.

As one of the easier to grow indoor flowering plants, stephanotis just needs a good amount of bright light and a support to climb on.

Live stephanotis plants can be purchased here.

9. Eucalyptus Tree (Eucalyptus cinerea)

Also known as silver dollar tree and argyle apple, eucalyptus emits a minty, sweet, and uplifting aroma. The silvery, blue-green foliage also provides a nice visual contrast among the pure greens of other houseplants.

Eucalyptus plants are incredibly speedy growers, maturing from seed to shrub in a single growing season. Indoors, they can be pruned into a bushy form or trained to look like a tree. Being native to Australia, it needs full sun to thrive. Feed weekly throughout spring and summer with a low nitrogen fertilizer.

Buy eucalyptus seeds here.

10. Sweet Bay (Laurus nobilis)

Sweet bay is a non-fussy evergreen tree with thick, glossy, elliptical leaves. Its foliage gives off an herbal scent with slight floral notes. Clip off the leaves from time to time to add flavor to soups, sauces, and stews.

Place sweet bay plants in a spot that receives full sun to part shade.

Buy sweet bay live plants here.

11. Tea Rose Begonia (Begonia ‘Tea Rose’)

A fibrous begonia, this tea rose cultivar features broad green leaves and ever blooming pinkish white flowers that appear along its red stem. Blooms are fragrant with a lightly sweet aroma.

Tea rose begonia prefers medium to bright light when kept indoors, high humidity, and warm temperatures.

Pick up tea rose begonia plants here.

12. Heliotrope (Heliotropium arborescens)

Bearing tiny violet flowers grouped together in large clusters, heliotrope is a delightful specimen that smells of vanilla. Although heliotrope is typically planted outdoors, it can be tamed for your indoor garden as long as you provide plenty of sunlight and humidity. Deadhead spent blooms to encourage more flowers.

Heliotrope seeds can be purchased here.

13. Angel’s Trumpet (Brugmansia x candida)

Fill your home with the intoxicating perfume of angel’s trumpet, a large tropical tree native to Ecuador. Releasing its scent in the evenings, angel’s trumpet has numerous, huge, downward facing trumpet-shaped flowers that are available in white, yellow, orange, and pink colors. But beware, all parts of this plant are highly toxic.

To keep it in bloom, angel’s trumpet needs as much sunlight as you can throw at it, warm temperatures, and plenty of ambient humidity.

Purchase 4-inch angel’s trumpet starter plants here.

14. Frangipani (Plumeria spp.)

Frangipani is a small tree native to Mexico, Hawaii, Central American, and the Caribbean. It is most well known as the flower used to make leis. The five-petal blooms – available in red, pink, yellow, and white hues – are incredibly fragrant, especially at night.

To keep frangipani as a houseplant, you’ll need to give it lots of bright, direct sunlight (at least 4 to 6 hours per day). Water the plant deeply but allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Encourage blooming by feeding with a high phosphorus fertilizer every two weeks.

A set of four frangipani cuttings can be purchased here.

15. Blue Passionflower (Passiflora caerulea)

An absolute show stopper, blue passionflower offers a mesmerizing display of colorful sepals, petals, filaments, stamens, and stigmas. Beyond its complex appearance, blue passionflower emits a minty, fruity aroma.

Since blue passionflower is a woody vine, it needs a cage or hoop support to keep it tidy. It also prefers a spacious pot for its roots to become well established. Blue passionflower loves the sun, high humidity, and household temperature ranges.

Live blue passionflower starter plants can be purchased here.

Encouraging Houseplants to Flower

Some houseplants are more stubborn than others when it comes to flowering. The only way to see those marvellous blooms year after year is to recreate their natural environment as best you can.

Here are a few tips:

Lighting – Some plants require more light than your sunniest window sill, especially if you live in the northern hemisphere. Supplement their sunlight needs by adding a grow light or two.

Humidity – To increase humidity levels in the home, place pebble trays beneath your planters. You can also give their foliage a daily spritz with plain water. Investing in a humidifier, grouping houseplants closely together, or setting them in a terrarium are other ways to keep tropical plants happy.

Repotting – Flowering takes up a lot of the plant’s energy. Replenish their nutrients by repotting plants in new potting soil every year.

Put them out – Consider setting plants outside during the summer months to give them a major boost of growth. Just be sure to bring them back inside before the temperature drops.

Summer is a great time to enjoy the refreshing citrus flavor of lemon. Wouldn’t it be great to have your own tree that you can pick from whenever you like? Fortunately, lemon trees are among the easiest citrus fruits to grow in your yard. With a bit of planning and patience, you can be plucking your own lemons in a matter of months.

Growing a lemon tree from seed is surprisingly straightforward, and something that anyone can do if they have a warm, sunny windowsill. It will take a few years to before it fruits and flowers but eventually your hard work will pay off. Citrus will grow in all parts of Australia except areas that experience severe frost.

Citrus trees have big benefits

  • They can produce gloriously perfumed white flowers, sport glossy, green leaves and brightly coloured fruit – yellow, orange and green
  • Fruit holds on the tree in good condition for many months after ripening providing long-term self-storage
  • Citrus fruits are rich in vitamin C and are great for winter health including resistance to colds and flu

What You’ll Need

A lemon:

It’s recommended that you buy organic lemons since some non-organic varieties have seeds that will not germinate. The “Meyer” variety are preferred because they are small and are better for ornamental purposes in containers or indoors.

Soil:

Use a mixture of peat, vermiculite and organic fertilizer. Normal potting soil will also suffice.

A container:

Choose one with drainage holes. To germinate your seeds the container only needs to be 15cm deep. Lemon trees have strong root systems and will prefer a container that is wider than it is deep so rather plant the seedlings in a container 30-45cm wide and 25-40cm deep. This will be sufficient for a few years.

How to Germinate Lemon Seeds

  1. Moisten the potting soil by adding water until it’s damp all the way through.
  2. Fill the container with the potting soil leaving a 3cm space below the rim.
  3. Slice the lemon (it’s best to cut the lemon slightly off-centre to avoid damaging the seeds). Pick the seeds out and rinse all the flesh off them.
  4. Plant them 1cm deep and cover completely with soil, then water well.
  5. Cover the container with a plastic bag and poke some holes in it to allow for the exchange of gasses. This keeps the seeds warm and moist. Use a rubber band to keep the plastic bag in place.
  6. Take note: seeds need warmth and moisture to germinate. But you don’t want too high temperatures nor do you want to allow the seeds to dry out. So keep an eye on them. If you think the soil temperature is warm enough rather remove the plastic cover. Too much warmth and moisture combined will rot the seeds.
  7. The germination period can take up to two weeks. You can remove the plastic cover when you see the little sprout emerging. Place the little ones where they can get some sunlight and check on them regularly.
  8. Once they are large enough to manage you can transplant them into larger containers.

Tip: Remember, lemon sprouts need light. Set the plant in full sun or in a sunny windowsill and check regularly to make sure it isn’t drying out or infected by diseases.

Caring for the Seedlings

Allow the soil to get dry when the seedlings have developed some leaves, before you start watering again. Do not let the soil to get dry completely. However, it must be kept moist.

When you grow lemon tree from seed, keep in mind that the trees will require about eight hours of sunlight in order to survive. On the other hand, the lemon tree seedlings will need about 14 hours. Consider placing a grow light beside your lemon tree to ensure that it will get enough sunlight that it needs. You can purchase these lights from nurseries and local garden centers.

Transplanting your Lemon Tree

Transplant the seedlings once the tails are already about 3.15 inches. If you don’t want to wait long, transplant them once the tails are already about 1/2 inch long. Create a shallow hole in a damp and well-drained soil and then tuck the lemon tree in pot into the hole. Pat the soil gently around the seedling.

Remember that your seedling will soon outgrow its pot. Once it reaches about a year old, transfer it into a pot that is about 6 inches wide. Eventually, you may have to move the pot to something wider, about 8 inches wide and 16 inches deep. You can also choose to transplant the seedlings directly into the soil.

A good rule of the thumb when it comes to transplanting when growing lemon tree from seed is to check the bottom of the pot. If you will see roots at the drainage holes, then take that as a sign that the plant will now need a much bigger pot.

Roses are among the most beautiful flowers grown in your garden. They come in different colors and varieties, but the best part is: roses are not difficult to grow! If you have a sunny garden with well-drained soil, then it is easy to create a beautiful rose garden that will be gorgeous for years to come. This article will cover all of the basic needs for your rose bushes as well as some tips and tricks to help you enjoy their beauty for years to come.

Why Grow Rose Bushes

If you love flowers, then you need to grow rose bushes! Rose bushes are one of the most popular flower varieties and for good reason. They are beautiful, long-lasting, and easy to care for. Here are some of the reasons why you should grow roses:

1. They Are Beautiful: Roses are some of the most popular flowers in the world because they are beautiful. There are a variety of different types of roses and each one is beautiful in its own way. Whether you have a traditional garden or want to try something new, there is a rose for you.

2. They Last Long: Roses are known for their long lasting beauty. Even if your rose bush is not in full bloom all year round, it will still be beautiful and last for a long time. Unlike other flowers that will die after a few weeks, roses will last for months or even years. This means that you can enjoy their beauty for a long time without having to replant them every season.

3. They Are Easy To Care For: Roses are one of the easiest plants to take care of. You don’t have to water them excessively or do anything complicated to keep them healthy. All you need to do is water them every week and you are good to go.

4. They Give You Positive Energy: Roses do what they can to make sure that you feel happy during the day, no matter how bad your situation is. When you smell their sweet smell or when their beautiful yellow blossoms are in front of your eyes, it gives a lot of positive energy to your body and soul. Not only this, but they also produce oxygen as they bloom so your home will be healthier when they are blooming.

5. They Are A Great Gift Idea: If you have a loved one on your mind then why not give them a nice rose bouquet? It’s such an easy way to show that you love them and appreciate all the positive things that they do for you. Roses are also a great way to say good-bye when you want to let someone know that you don’t want to see them anymore. They are also very meaningful for weddings and other important events as we mentioned before.

How to choose the right rose bush

When choosing a rose bush, there are a few things to consider. First, the size of the bush needs to be considered. Second, the type of rose bush needs to be considered. Third, the pruning and care needed for the rose bush needs to be considered. Fourth, the location where the rose bush will be planted needs to be considered. Fifth, the climate where the rose bush will be located needs to be considered. Sixth, possible pests and diseases that can affect roses need to be considered. Finally, price should not be a deciding factor when selecting a rose bush.

How to plant a rose bush

If you’re looking to plant a rose bush, there are a few things to keep in mind. First, choose a location that gets at least six hours of sunlight per day. Second, make sure the soil is well-drained and has plenty of organic matter. Third, choose a rose variety that is best suited for your climate and garden style. Finally, fertilize your rose bush every two months with a rose food supplement or organic fertilizer.

Care and Maintenance of a Rose Bush

There are a few things that you need to do to take good care of your rose bush. Here are the basics:

1. Water your rose bush regularly. Roses require about one and a half inches of water per week. If the soil is dry, water until the surface of the soil is moist. Do not over water as this will cause root rot.

2. Fertilize your rose bush every two months with a fertilizer specifically formulated for roses. Follow the label instructions carefully. Do not use manure or compost on roses as they contain chemicals that can harm them.

3. Prune your rose bush in late winter/early spring when new growth begins to appear. Cut off any dead branches and trim away any leaves that are beyond desired size or shape.

4. Maintain a healthy climate for your rose bush by keeping it out of direct sunlight and away from windy areas.

Varieties of Roses

In order to grow beautiful rose bushes, there are many varieties to choose from. Some popular types of roses include the following:

-The Hybrid Tea Rose: This type of rose is a cross between the Old World Roses and the American Beauty Roses. They have a strong fragrance and are resistant to diseases and pests.

-The Lady’s Delight: A vigorous hybrid tea rose that is excellent for cutting or as a specimen plant. Bears large, fragrant blooms with deep pink petals.

-The Damascena Rose: Originating in Central Asia, this type of rose has long, slender petals and a deep red or black color. They are considered among the most fragrant roses available.

-The Chinese Rose: A shrubby rose with long, narrow petals that ranges in color from light pink to deep red. The Chinese Rose can be quite difficult to grow but produces large, fragrant flowers.

Growing broccoli in a small garden can be tricky but it’s definitely possible.

In this article I’ll share some handy tips to help you grow broccoli in a small space or in containers.

This post contains affiliate links. Please read the disclosure for more info.

HOW TO GROW BROCCOLI IN A SMALL GARDEN

Choose a small broccoli variety

First, it’s important to choose the right variety of broccoli because some varieties are better suited for small spaces than others.

Look for a compact variety that doesn’t require a lot of space to grow.

Sprouting broccoli is a good option for small spaces.

It has a smaller head than traditional broccoli, and it doesn’t need as much room to grow.

Broccolini, also called tender stem broccoli, is another good choice for small gardens.

It’s a cross between regular broccoli and Chinese broccoli, and has long stalks with small florets on top.

Chinese broccoli, also known as Gai Lan, is another good option for small gardens.

It’s fast growing and has thick, edible stalks that are great for stir fries.

Stagger your planting

If you have limited space, you can still grow a lot of broccoli by staggering your planting.

Broccoli is a cool weather crop that thrives in temperatures between 60 to 65 degrees F. (15 to 18 degrees C.), so it can be grown in both spring and fall, making it a great option for year-round gardening.

Plant a few seeds every two weeks or so, rather than planting all your seeds at once.

This way, you’ll have a continuous supply of broccoli throughout the growing season.

Growing broccoli in containers

If you have limited garden space, you can also grow broccoli in pots or containers.

Just make sure the pots are at least 12 inches (30 cm) deep so the roots have enough room to grow.

You can use a traditional pot, or something like a half-barrel planter.

Fill the container with high-quality potting soil, and plant the seeds or seedlings according to the instructions on the pack.

Be sure to water container broccoli regularly because plants in containers dry out faster than those planted in the garden.

Broccoli plant spacing

When planning your garden, make sure to leave enough space for broccoli plants to spread out.

The plants should be at least 18 inches (45 cm) apart, and preferably 24 inches (60 cm) apart.

This will give them enough room to grow without crowding out other plants in your garden.

Prune the leaves

As your broccoli plant grows bigger and taller, remove a few of the lower leaves on the stem.

This will prevent the leaves shading other plants and allow for more air circulation around the plants.

Removing a few leaves also helps the plant focus its resources on growing upward and developing the head, rather than spreading out and taking up too much space in your garden.

Just be sure to remove no more than 2 to 3 leaves off each plant because they won’t be able to produce heads if there aren’t enough leaves.

Intensive broccoli growing

If you’re really short on space, you can try intensive broccoli growing.

This is a method of growing plants closer together than recommended, but making sure that they still get enough light, water, and nutrients.

To do this, plant your broccoli seedlings 12 inches (30 cm) apart. This is much closer than the usual 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 cm).

You’ll need to water and fertilize more frequently to make sure the plants don’t get stressed, but this method can save you a lot of space in your garden.

If you use this technique you can harvest every second plant early when the heads are still small and then leave the remaining plants to grow to full size.

This way you can really maximize your growing space.

Broccoli planting tips

Broccoli needs full sun to grow well, so make sure to plant it in a spot that gets at least 6 hours of sunlight each day.

Before you plant your broccoli, it’s important to prepare your soil by digging in some compost or aged manure.

Broccoli prefers rich, loamy soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8. [1]

If your soil is too acidic or too alkaline, it can affect the growth of your plants.

You can use a soil test kit to measure the pH of your garden soil.

Once you’ve prepared your soil, you’re ready to plant! Broccoli can be planted from seed or transplants.

Water your broccoli regularly, especially during hot, dry weather.

Broccoli needs about two inches (5 cm) of water per week.

Finally, don’t forget to fertilize your broccoli plants.

Broccoli plants are heavy feeders so feed them regularly with a liquid fertilizer or slow release fertilizer.

Broccoli is ready to harvest when the heads are firm and tight. Cut the broccoli heads off at the base with a sharp knife.

You can start harvesting broccoli when the heads are about 6 to 8 inches(15 to 20 cm) in diameter.

Broccoli is best eaten fresh, but it can also be frozen for later use. Simply blanch the broccoli in boiling water for 3 minutes, then cool it in ice water.

Dry it well and store it in a freezer bag. It will keep in the freezer for up to a year.

Broccoli overcrowding problems

If your broccoli plants are overcrowded, they won’t have enough space to grow properly.

This can lead to a number of problems, including:

  • Smaller heads
  • Less side shoots
  • The plants will be more susceptible to pests and diseases
  • The quality of the heads will be lower

If your broccoli plants are overcrowding each other, you’ll need to thin them out.

This means removing some of the seedlings so that the remaining plants have enough space to grow properly.

Growing passion fruits from seed is easy to do and it’s very satisfying to watch a seed grown passion fruit plant grow into a large fruiting vine.

In this article I’ll show you how to plant and care for seed grown passion fruit plants in your garden.

This post contains affiliate links. Please read the disclosure for more info.

HOW TO GROW PASSION FRUIT PLANTS FROM SEED

Collecting the seeds

To extract passion fruit seeds, place a scoop of passion fruit pulp and seeds into a strainer or mesh colander and wash away the pulp with running water.

Place the seeds on a piece of paper towel to dry.

Plant the seeds straight away or store them in an envelope in a cool dry place until you’re ready to plant them.

Purchasing passion fruit seeds

You can also purchase a wide variety of passion fruit seeds online including purple passion fruit (Passiflora edulis), tropical passion fruit (Passiflora flavicarpa) or banana passion fruit (Passiflora mollissima).

It’s also possible to purchase passion fruit plants from nurseries or speciality gardening centres if you don’t have the patience to grow them from seed.

Planting passion fruit seeds

If you live outside the tropics, it’s best to start your passion fruit seeds inside, about six weeks before the last frost of the season.

Passion fruit seeds have a hard coating which can delay germination, so it’s a good idea to pre-germinate the seeds first by soaking them in warm water overnight before planting.

The following day, fill a container with seed raising mix, sow the seeds and lightly cover them with soil.

Gently water the soil and place the container in a warm spot, away from direct sun until the seeds germinate.

It usually takes about two to three weeks for fresh passion fruit seeds to germinate, depending on the warmth of the soil.

Older seeds can take two months or more to germinate, so it’s best to use fresh seeds if possible.

Growing passion fruits from seed will give you a large number of plants, so you can give some of the plants away to friends and family or thin them out so you’re left with only the strongest plants.

Raising passion fruit seedlings

Transplant the seedlings to individual pots when they have developed sturdy stems and about three sets of true leaves.

Place the pots in a warm spot and keep the soil moist until the plants develop several sets of true leaves.

You can transplant the plants to their final position in the garden once they are well established

Caring for seed grown passion fruit plants

Passion fruit plants that are grown from seeds can be highly productive, providing they’re given the right care.

Passion fruit vines grow best in full sun, so pick a sunny spot in the garden that receives at least six hours of direct sunlight each day.

The vines are fast growing and need plenty of nutrients to support their growth so dig in some aged compost or manure before planting your seedlings out in the garden.

Space the plants out about 2 to 3 feet (60 to 90 cm) apart next to the trellis or climbing support.

Water the plants every few days, and more often during the summer months, but take care to ensure that the soil doesn’t become waterlogged.

Passion fruit plants should be fertilized in early spring, and again in late spring or early summer for an abundant crop.

Harvesting passion fruits

Passion fruit plants grown in tropical climates can produce fruit in as little as six months, but it may take up to 12 months in cooler climates.

Passion fruits are ready to harvest when they turn from green to their distinctive purple colour.

The fruits will drop to the ground when they’re ripe, so you can just pick them up as you need them.

Passion fruit vines can bear fruit throughout the summer and well into fall so check the vines regularly for ripe passion fruits.

Storing passion fruits

Passion fruits can be stored in the refrigerator for up to a week after harvesting.

Place the fruits in the crisper section loose so the air can circulate around them.

If you put them in a plastic bag they’ll turn moldy.

How to eat passion fruit

There are many ways to enjoy fresh passion fruit including using it in baked treats, making jams and preserves or using the pulp in desserts.

Passion fruit is also great for drinks. You can add the pulp to sparkling water, smoothies or cocktails.

How long do passion fruit vines live?

Passion fruit vines can live for around five years but the fruit production will decrease after the third year.

Pruning passion fruit vines

Passion fruit vines set fruit on new growth so they’ll produce more fruit if you cut them back at the start of spring.

If the vine starts outgrowing the trellis you’ll need to trim it back to keep it looking tidy and so the branches don’t become tangled.

Spider plants (Chlorophytum) are popular, low maintenance houseplants that live for many years if given the right care.

How often you need to water your spider plant will depend on the temperature, location of the plant and the soil type.

In this article I’ll explain everything you need to know about watering spider plants so that your plants stay healthy and thriving for many years.

This post contains affiliate links. Please read the disclosure for more info.

How to water spider plants

The best way to water spider plants is to completely soak the potting soil and then allow it to dry out slightly before you water again.

Use filtered or rain water for best results.

Make sure the pot has drainage holes in the bottom and use a potting soil that is easily draining to avoid the soil becoming waterlogged.

How often to water spider plants

It’s generally recommended that spider plants are watered once or twice weekly depending on how warm the temperature is and if they’re exposed to direct sun.

I have four large spider plants and six baby spider plants in my sunroom and I water them twice a week which they seem to like.

As the weather cools down I’ll reduce it to once weekly.

Before watering, check the soil with your finger to see if the top layer has dried out.

If the soil is still reasonably moist, wait another day or two before watering.

You can also use a soil moisture meter to tell you when the soil has dried out enough to water again.

If you’re new to caring for spider plants it’s a good idea to keep track of when you’ve watered by marking the date on a calendar or on your phone to develop a watering schedule.

Spring / Summer Watering

Check your plants every few days during the spring and summer months and give them a deep watering when you notice the top layer of soil is dry.

Spider plants are actively growing during spring and summer so they’ll benefit from the addition of some liquid plant food to the water once a month.

Winter / Fall Watering

Spider plants slow their growth during fall and winter so they need a lot less water during these months.

Check the soil each week to see if it’s dry and take care to ensure that your plants are located away from heaters and air conditioners which will dry them out a lot quicker.

Overwatering

Spider plants are hardy and can handle being overwatered occasionally but they’re susceptible to root rot when the soil stays moist for prolonged periods of time.

How long can spider plants live without watering?

Spider plants can last around two weeks without water in warm weather or three weeks in cool weather.

If you’re planning a long vacation it’s a good idea to get someone to water your plants at least once a week to avoid stressing the plants.

Can you water spider plants with tap water?

It’s best to use rain water or filtered water for spider plants because they’re sensitive to chlorine and other chemicals that are added to tap water.

If tap water is all you have available, let it stand in the watering can overnight so that the chemicals can disperse.

Why doesn’t the water soak in?

The plant is most likely root bound if the water sits on top of the soil and takes a long time to soak in.

Root bound means that the roots are tightly packed into the pot, making it hard for the water to get through.

Gently slide the plant out of the pot and if the roots are tightly coiled around the bottom of the pot you’ll know it’s time to repot your plant.

Can you mist spider plants?

Spider plants will benefit from occasional misting, especially during hot, dry weather.

Mist the leaves every few days in summer to help increase humidity.

It’s best to mist indoor plants in the morning to give the water time to evaporate before nightfall.

Can spider plants be watered from the bottom?

Spider plants can be bottom watered every few weeks to give them a deep watering.

Bottom watering is a technique that involves placing the plant in a shallow container filled with water.

This allows the plant to absorb as much water as it needs and encourages the roots to grow down towards the bottom of the pot.

So there are my tips for watering indoor spider plants.

Spider plants are beautiful houseplants that add interest to indoor gardens and with the right watering schedule you can ensure that your spider plants will be flourishing and healthy for many years to come. [1]

When I was young, one of my favorite things about visiting my grandparents was the flowers that grew along the fence between their yard and the next. They had planted morning glories and brand new, beautiful, big flowers opened up every single morning. The vine grew so thickly that sometimes you couldn’t see through the chain link fence at all! They were glorious!

It was one of the very first flowers I planted at my first house. I planted them by the fence exactly once and never had to plant them again! They came back on their own each year after that. At my current house I have them under the front porch so they grow up and across it. Each vine produces hundreds of flowers per season.

WHEN DO MORNING GLORIES BLOOM?

Morning glories are a ffast-growingclimbing vine with a literal ton of blooms that open super early in the morning and close around mid-day. You’ll have to wake up before dawn to see the morning glory flowers opening!

Morning glory is the common name for over 1,000 species of flowering plants in the Convolvulaceae family. They were first grown in China for medicinal uses. The morning glory getsitss name because the flowers start to open before dawn.

These are not to be confused with the 4 O’clock flower wwhoseflowers open around late afternoon each day, and the blooms close and die by morning. Or the Moonflower which doesn’t even open till evening.

Morning glories can grow thick enough to block your view, so if you need some privacy, plant them along your fence line. They do need something to grow on, twine around,d or grip. They take up very little ground space, so they are wonderful for small ground areas with a fence or trellis to grow up.

Morning glories produce large trumpet-shaped flowers with heart-shaped leaves. The most common colors are a showy blue or bright purple, though there are many others. The variety in these pictures is Grandpa Ott.

PLANTING MORNING GLORY

Choose a sunny location with 4-6 hours of direct sun. Morning glories flower best in full sun, but they can tolerate some shade. They will close shortly after being cast into shade though, so to extend the amount of time the blooms are open…opt for full sun.

Plant seeds in rich,well-drainingg soil. Seedlings should emerge in less than 21 days. Thin plants to 6″ apart.

I prefer to start seeds in pots 8 weeks before our last expected frost date. I then transplant seedlings to their final spot when they are a few inches tall and all danger of frost has passed.

I hate thinning plants because I lose so many, and transplanting seedlings just works better for me! Plus I can start seeds on a heated seed mat, which seems to decrease the time till they germinate. These are very tough seeds!

These beautiful plants are mostly problem free. Unfortunatel,y morning glories are not deer resistant! The deer don’t seem to like mine where they currently are, but I do have a constant battle to keep deer out of the garden.

You do not need to deadhead morning glories and they bloom so profusely it would be a daily chore! The flowers close and drop off, leaving a small pod behind and that is where the seeds are produced. Most gardeners remove as many of the seed pods as possible to preventself-seedingg.

Morning glories are not heavy feeders and when you do fertilize them, you have to be careful not to give too much. This will cause the vines to grow profusely, but not produce as many flowers. I add some compost at planting time and a weak fertilizer every 2 weeks or so during blooming.

Once established, the morning glory is mostly drought resistant. I water once a week in drought conditions, otherwise,e they get whatever happens to rain on them and that’s about it. As you can see, tha ‘s plenty!

Morning glories are an annual and will die off at the very first frost of the year. You’ll want to pull down the vines once they dry up and turn brittle.

HOW TO SAVE SEEDS FROM THE MORNING GLORY VINE

Morning glories willself-seedd unless you collect the seeds first. The seed pods start green but turn brown and brittle when they’re ready. Simply crush the dry seed pods between your fingers and blow gently to remove the dried shell.

Seeds can easily be removed and saved for next year. Allow seeds to dry for several days before storing, and store in paper envelopes (not plastic containers) to discourage mold.

If you are looking for ways to make money off your garden morning glories will produce a ton of seeds to sell. They’ll also sself-seedenough that you will be able to remove seedlings in the spring to sell or give away. Start with a rare color as only a few colors are available widely.

ARE MORNING GLORIES INVASIVE?

Unfortunately, yes they can be. Even though they are annual, the morning glory will self-seed so proficiently that you will probably never need to plant them again! Your best bet is to remove the dead flower clumps before they go to seed. The flowers themselves will drop off within a day.

It grows in such a long vine though, that you are bound to miss some and they will come back next year! You’ll need to be vigilant about weeding in the spring to pull out all the new plants that start growing from the last yyear’sseed!

Morning glories are a great way to fill in blank spaces, create privacy with a chain link fence or just enjoy fresh blooms all summer long!

Have you decided what to plant in your garden yet? Click here to see how I decid!.

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You spend a lot of time in your bedroom, so it’s important to design a space that ensures you get a good night’s rest. One of the easiest (and most affordable!) ways to transform your bedroom into a peaceful sanctuary is with indoor plants — not only do they look beautiful, houseplants can actually help improve your health, mood and sleep quality, too.

According to NASA research, a number of popular houseplants have been found to improve air quality by diffusing toxins and releasing oxygen all night long; the right plants can also provide allergy relief and decrease stress. On top of that, plants can improve the aesthetics of your bedroom with very little effort on your end. From large indoor trees to small succulents, you also don’t have to stress over killing any of the picks on our list of the best bedroom plants, since most of them are easy-to-maintain plants that thrive in low-light conditions (we’re looking at you, beginner plant parents).

Whether you’re looking for a plant that’ll grow tall with proper care or a hanging plant that will infuse lots of personality into your room, you’re sure to find a plant to fit your bedroom style right here — just don’t forget to pick up one of the best indoor pots or planters to display it in. For more indoor plant ideas, check out our guides to best kitchen plants and the best bathroom plants.

English Ivy

Whether draping over your nightstand or from a hanging planter, English ivy is a great choice for the bedroom, as this trailing plant is known to release oxygen and absorb indoor air pollutants like formaldehyde and ammonia.

It does best in moderate light during spring and summer months, and in bright sunlight during the fall and winter. It also appreciates humidity, so mist it often.

Snake Plant

The snake plant’s bold, sword-like foliage is an eye-catching addition to any bedroom. Also called sansevieria, it’s been a popular houseplant for decades since it’s so hard to kill — all it requires is indirect light and little water.

Aloe Vera

Aloe vera is a soothing ingredient commonly found in lotions and soaps, but it also makes a great houseplant. The tropical succulent with fleshy leaves and spiky edges doesn’t require frequent watering, but it does need bright light, so consider putting it on your bedroom windowsill.

Pothos

If you don’t have the greenest of thumbs, pothos is the answer! This hardy plant has glossy, trailing vines that drape perfectly over dressers, shelves or hanging planters.

It prefers moderate light, but will tolerate low light. Just be extra careful to let it dry out between waterings.

Philodendron Birkin

With lush green leaves featuring beautiful white pinstripes, this fast-growing plant is one of the easier houseplants to keep healthy. Put it in mid-bright to indirect sunlight and water it once every week or two. Find the perfect planter and it’s the perfect bedside plant.

Monstera

You’ve probably seen this glossy beauty all over Instagram, and for good reason: Monstera, also known as the “Swiss cheese plant,” is an easy-going option that requires moderate light and once-weekly watering. But take note: You’ll want to steer clear of this plant if you have pets, because its foliage may irritate cats, dogs or other small animals.

Peace Lily

With glossy green leaves and bright white flowers, the peace lilies are excellent at removing toxins and allergens from the air. They’re also great for first-time plant owners, since this flowering plant is very forgiving.

It does best in a well-lit bedroom and should be watered when the top inch of soil is dry.

Rubber Plant

Black thumbs, this one’s for you: Rubber plants are hardy and its glossy, dark leaves will bring drama to any small bedroom.

While it prefers bright light — filtered morning sun, especially — it can tolerate lower-light conditions. Water when soil is slightly dry to the touch, about once a week.

Boston Fern

Native to humid forests and swamps, the Boston fern has been a popular houseplant since Victorian times. Also known as sword fern, it features drooping feather-shaped leaves that make for a perfect hanging plant.

It does best in bright light, so hang it in front of your bedroom window or place in a sunny corner — and be sure to mist it every day. It’s also one of the more inexpensive houseplants out there, so stock up!

Anthurium

Enter the world’s longest blooming houseplant: The neon flowers on this plant can last up to eight weeks, with fresh ones popping up regularly. Stick it in a spot with bright light and high humidity. The more light it receives, the more you should water it: As a general rule, water every week, allowing soil to dry out between waterings.Dracaena

With dramatic foliage and detailed markings, this popular air-purifying houseplant is a great way to fill up free space. Over time, it’ll reach a height of three feet, so make sure it has plenty of room to grow.

Dracaena like moderate light and lightly moist soil, so try to situate this plant near a window for optimum growth.

Philodendron Heartleaf

For the full effect, place this pretty vining plant with heart-shaped leaves on top of your dresser or nightstand. It’s a low-maintenance plant that tolerates low light, and it should dry out slightly between waterings. Just keep it away from pets and kids, as it can be toxic if eaten.

Dieffenbachia Camille

The intricately marked leaves on this accent plant make it an instant standout. Best of all: It doesn’t need a lot of regular care as long as it has moderate light and frequent watering. Just be careful to keep water moist, not wet or soggy.

Air Plant

This small-but-mighty plant is about as easy to take of as they come! It’s actually an epiphyte, meaning it doesn’t even need soil to thrive. Most of the time, you’ll see air plants displayed inside glass terrariums or hanging from pieces of wood. No matter which display route you take, give ’em bright light, and mist occasionally.

Parlor Palm

Parlor palms are best suited for advanced plant parents, since it needs bright indoor light and constant, light moisture. But trust us, this diva is well worth the extra effort because its sophisticated look and air-purifying qualities will seriously enhance your bedroom.

Lavender

With its silvery-green leaves and purple flowers, lavender makes a pretty bedside accent with a soothing scent that research shows can have a calming effect on your nervous system.

Keep in mind that this perennial won’t last forever indoors, but it’ll still be a delightful addition for a few months. Just plant it outside after its blooms fade to ensure that it’ll return in the coming year. Lavender prefers bright light indoors and full sun outdoors, and water when the soil is slightly dry.

Lucky Bamboo

One of the best plants for feng shui, this hard-to-kill plant is said to bring positive energy and good fortune to your home. It’s fairly tolerant, too, preferring moderate light, but it can adapt well to low-light conditions. If grown in soil, keep it slightly moist. Otherwise, keep the roots covered in water, and change it out every week or so.

ZZ Plant

Shiny leaves and a bold, upright form make this striking plant a must-have for your nightstand or dresser. Even better? The ZZ plant, otherwise known as zamioculas zamiifolia, tolerates extremely low light levels and irregular watering. To keep it healthy, water only when the top few inches of soil feels dry.

Aglaonema

Another plant that thrives on neglect, most aglaonema (a.k.a Chinese evergreen) can survive low-light conditions. Depending on which variation you choose, the strappy leaves may have hints of red or silver. Keep the soil moist by misting regularly.

Lady Palm

If you have bright, indirect light, the tall, graceful fans of the Lady palm are an easy way to add elegance — and greenery — to your bedroom. This particular species isn’t as fussy as other palms, but they reap the same benefits like purifying the air. Keep your houseplant near an east-facing window, and water when the top inch of soil is dry.